Advanced · Historic Advanced · Historically Focused

Alexis MacAlister

Location: Barony of Marcaster, Trimaris

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Advanced

About Alexis: I joined the SCA in 1981. Pennsic X was my second event. My grandmother taught me to sew when I was young. I’m a Laurel in the SCA for Fiber Arts. This challenge ties directly into my persona.

Her Project: My goal is to create an early 16th C. Tudor ensemble for a middle-class seamstress. I have wanted to get back into early 16th C. clothing for a while, as it is my first love in historical period and clothing.

Advanced · Historic Advanced · Historically Focused

Annora Reyner

Location: Barony of Three Rivers, Calontir

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Advanced

About Annora: My main art focus is costuming. I will be using this challenge to make an outfit I had already planned. This will help provide some outside motivation for me to work on my project and stretch a little.

Her Project: Outfit will be an early Tudor ensemble indicative of the turn of the 16th century showcasing the stylistic change in silhouette. The outer gown will display pleating techniques in the back and have a wrap closure. The hood will be embellished with pearls and spangles as seen in several contemporary tapestries.

Layer 1

The body linen layer of the early 16th century was very similar to body linen layers of the previous eras. It is constructed using geometric shaped pattern pieces. For women it is ankle length. The sleeves are wrist length and narrow to fit through fitted outer sleeves. The neckline is square to match the kirtle with a high v in the back. I’ve made this same pattern many times and it wears very well. I did a reverse facing to complete the square neckline. I do not think I will do this in the future as I don’t like the look. But it would be a good method to apply an embroidered band to the neckline.

The linen is a lightweight linen from 96 District and the seams were sewn with a fine white silk thread by hand.

Layer 2

A pink linen kirtle of the early 16th century in England. It has been constructed with a separate waist seam and pleated skirt and short sleeves as seen in primary source images. The bodice is interlined with linen canvas and lined with 5oz white linen. This provides good shape and support to the bodice without being pad stitched or otherwise manipulated. I believe the early 16th century is too early for the use of pad stitching or other technical tailoring techniques. 20 hand bound eyelets were sewn in silk thread. Most of the construction seams were done with cotton thread. The kirtle is completely hand sewn and created from a pattern that I drafted. There are several process photos showing stages of construction and finishing. Fit is the most important thing about this layer as the kirtle supports the bust and provides the shape for the outer layer. I’m overall very happy with the fit of this kirtle. But I may tweak a few spots for the future. The shoulder straps could be a bit tighter and fit closer to the body. The facing around the neckline made the square corners much easier to sew but does add bulk to the neckline as well. This is the first time that I’ve used the fashion fabric for this purpose. A thin silk would reduce bulk here. The waistline is straight but appears to dip lower in the back of the kirtle. I believe this is an illusion created by how the kirtle fits on the body. The bodice was drafted with a straight waistline. An adjustment to the back of the bodice, raising it slightly, might account for this and correct the illusion. The hem goes to the floor but may be raised in the future as the kirtle is intended to be worn inside and outside.

Layer 3

This is a wool transitional gown from the turn of the 16th century. It’s has a wrap front closure that is shaped similar to 15th century gowns. But the back has developed more fullness and shows pleating techniques that start to be used more in the 16th century. The sleeves are a trumpet shape popular of this time period. It is fully lined in silk and hand sewn.

Bonus Points

Historic Intermediate · Historically Focused · Intermediate

Chelsey of Gloucester

Location: Canton of the Towers, East

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Intermediate

Project Update Blog: The Seashelly Tales

About Chelsey: I’ve been a member for over 10 years. I do sew regularly and my persona could use some additional pieces of clothing. I have participated in a group challenge somewhere else a few years ago and am interested in this personal challenge. Love this challenge idea. Great to unite people from all over the Known World.

Her Project: Tudor/Elizabethan Outfit – still working out exact patterns/designs including a heavily embroidered cap, chemise, stays, farthingdale, kirtle & outer gown.

Advanced · Modern Advanced · Modern Recreationist

Eadaoin inghean Chionoidha

Location: Barony of Lonely Tower, Calontir

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Advanced

About Eadaoin: I have been in the SCA since August of 2003, starting in the Canton of Axed Root. I have been sewing for just as long. Until the pandemic, sewing was my day job and is still my side job. I am also an inkle and card weaver and have dabbled in tapestry weaving and bobbin lace. I have done a Tudor kirtle, before, but I have not done this style of over gown, so it will be a new adventure. If I find that I have the fabric for it, I will be doing the more elaborate sleeves, which will be new for me.

Her Project Plans: I will be doing a mid 16th century Tudor outfit based on an engraving of Margaret Tudor. There will be some changes to stay within my limited budget and to utilize material that I already have. There will be a simple linen smock, a wool kirtle, and burgundy over gown with simplified sleeves, as I am not sure that I have the material for the more elaborate ones in the portrait. Patterns will be done by me based on the ones found in The Tudor Tailor.

Historic Intermediate · Historically Focused · Intermediate

Eva Celensoen

Location: Barony of Three Rivers, Calontir

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Intermediate

About Eva: I have been in the SCA for almost 10 years now. I like to sew garb in the society but it is not something I do all the time; I also like to knit, do illuminations, and accumulate new hobbies to try. My persona tends to be 12th century onward. I have not completely settled on one time quite yet but this outfit is one for a persona I have considered. This project , despite having done some tudor before will still be challenging. I plan on handsewing this outfit almost entirely. The over-gown is something I have never made before which I will have to pattern and actually really intimidates me.

Her Project: I am going to make an upper class tudor outfit. This outfit is based on portraits of Mary I (1544) & Elizabeth I (1546) from when they were girls. In the past I have created, with much help an outfit for the tudor middle class women. The two outfit have the same shift and kirtle layers but vastly different gowns. My goal for this project is to sew almost everything by hand. I will be adding substitute whale bonesto the kirtle to provide extra stability and structure, which I have not done before.

Layer 4

Knitted Wool socks, late 1500s using a Modern maker knitting pattern. I made some mistake along the way so the socks are not entirely identical/do not follow the pattern exactly. These are the first pair of socks I have completed ever!

Bonus Points

Beginner · Modern Beginner · Modern Recreationist

Olena Borisova

Location: Avacal

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Beginner

About Olena: This dress will tie into a new persona I have created for myself. I have been in the Sca for almost 20 years off and on. Have sewn a bit of garb but nothing I would consider spectacular.

Her Project: Recently discovers I enjoy the Tudor period. So I will be making a 1560 ish Tudor period dress. Which will include: black work chemise(underdress)and cuffs, kirtle, dress, false sleeves, and French hood. I have attempted one gown previous to the one planned. But since I cannot work with a pattern only sew by sight I will find it challenging.

Layer 1

The chemise was patterned from the Elizabethan chemise pattern. It is a typical 1500’s underdress to wear under main articles of clothing in order to keep the main layers clean. Women in England and other countries owned a few or many sending on their status and what they could afford. Mine is made out of linen which is historically accurate for this time period. I did have some issues lining up the fires but it worked out in the end. It is completely hand sewn.

Layer 2

My second layer is the kirtle. This was also sewn by hand. Plastic boning was included in the front.

Bonus Points

Beginner · Modern Beginner · Modern Recreationist

Vigdis Svinahildasdottir

Location: Lochac

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Beginner

About Vigdis: I have been involved in the sca for three years and only learnt to sew due to having to make garb. So i have been only been sewing for three years. i have had a lot of encouragement from the members of the barony of Southron Gaard. I love event planning, dancing and cooking. I also am involved in Heavy Armored Combat. this project is entirely out of my comfort zone but this year i am pushing myself to do more things that interest me and to learn more.

Her Project: i am wanting to make a Tudor outfit for my *yr old niece. I have done mainly early century clothes so this is a new endeavor for me. She likes to wear male garb so my plan is to make a linen shirt with blackwork (batman symbols are her choice), Trou and doublet. This is the first time I have done blackwork and the first time making more structural garb.