Advanced · Historic Advanced · Historically Focused

Annora Reyner

Location: Barony of Three Rivers, Calontir

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Advanced

About Annora: My main art focus is costuming. I will be using this challenge to make an outfit I had already planned. This will help provide some outside motivation for me to work on my project and stretch a little.

Her Project: Outfit will be an early Tudor ensemble indicative of the turn of the 16th century showcasing the stylistic change in silhouette. The outer gown will display pleating techniques in the back and have a wrap closure. The hood will be embellished with pearls and spangles as seen in several contemporary tapestries.

Layer 1

The body linen layer of the early 16th century was very similar to body linen layers of the previous eras. It is constructed using geometric shaped pattern pieces. For women it is ankle length. The sleeves are wrist length and narrow to fit through fitted outer sleeves. The neckline is square to match the kirtle with a high v in the back. I’ve made this same pattern many times and it wears very well. I did a reverse facing to complete the square neckline. I do not think I will do this in the future as I don’t like the look. But it would be a good method to apply an embroidered band to the neckline.

The linen is a lightweight linen from 96 District and the seams were sewn with a fine white silk thread by hand.

Layer 2

A pink linen kirtle of the early 16th century in England. It has been constructed with a separate waist seam and pleated skirt and short sleeves as seen in primary source images. The bodice is interlined with linen canvas and lined with 5oz white linen. This provides good shape and support to the bodice without being pad stitched or otherwise manipulated. I believe the early 16th century is too early for the use of pad stitching or other technical tailoring techniques. 20 hand bound eyelets were sewn in silk thread. Most of the construction seams were done with cotton thread. The kirtle is completely hand sewn and created from a pattern that I drafted. There are several process photos showing stages of construction and finishing. Fit is the most important thing about this layer as the kirtle supports the bust and provides the shape for the outer layer. I’m overall very happy with the fit of this kirtle. But I may tweak a few spots for the future. The shoulder straps could be a bit tighter and fit closer to the body. The facing around the neckline made the square corners much easier to sew but does add bulk to the neckline as well. This is the first time that I’ve used the fashion fabric for this purpose. A thin silk would reduce bulk here. The waistline is straight but appears to dip lower in the back of the kirtle. I believe this is an illusion created by how the kirtle fits on the body. The bodice was drafted with a straight waistline. An adjustment to the back of the bodice, raising it slightly, might account for this and correct the illusion. The hem goes to the floor but may be raised in the future as the kirtle is intended to be worn inside and outside.

Layer 3

This is a wool transitional gown from the turn of the 16th century. It’s has a wrap front closure that is shaped similar to 15th century gowns. But the back has developed more fullness and shows pleating techniques that start to be used more in the 16th century. The sleeves are a trumpet shape popular of this time period. It is fully lined in silk and hand sewn.

Bonus Points

Historic Intermediate · Historically Focused · Intermediate

Eva Celensoen

Location: Barony of Three Rivers, Calontir

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Intermediate

About Eva: I have been in the SCA for almost 10 years now. I like to sew garb in the society but it is not something I do all the time; I also like to knit, do illuminations, and accumulate new hobbies to try. My persona tends to be 12th century onward. I have not completely settled on one time quite yet but this outfit is one for a persona I have considered. This project , despite having done some tudor before will still be challenging. I plan on handsewing this outfit almost entirely. The over-gown is something I have never made before which I will have to pattern and actually really intimidates me.

Her Project: I am going to make an upper class tudor outfit. This outfit is based on portraits of Mary I (1544) & Elizabeth I (1546) from when they were girls. In the past I have created, with much help an outfit for the tudor middle class women. The two outfit have the same shift and kirtle layers but vastly different gowns. My goal for this project is to sew almost everything by hand. I will be adding substitute whale bonesto the kirtle to provide extra stability and structure, which I have not done before.

Layer 4

Knitted Wool socks, late 1500s using a Modern maker knitting pattern. I made some mistake along the way so the socks are not entirely identical/do not follow the pattern exactly. These are the first pair of socks I have completed ever!

Bonus Points

Advanced · Modern Advanced · Modern Recreationist

Fira of Three Rivers

Location: Barony of Three Rivers, Calontir

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Advanced

About Fira: I am a player who has come from another game. I have dabbled in the SCA for a few years, mostly I come around when there’s a feast needing cooked. I am a retired Army cook so feeding people is fun for me. I have 10 years experience sewing and I run an alterations shop out of my home. I have spent the last decade climbing the award ladder and have almost reached peerage in my old game, the outer garment was the design I had planned for my Knighting surcoat. I have chosen to leave that game because of the drama and toxicity and this project is kind of my final farewell piece. This project has the potential to be challenging as I shift my focus from a place of more fantasy to the place of more historical.

Her Project: I plan to make a simple dress, I will figure out something for undergarments (not something I normally do),and a very extraordinary over garment that I have had in mind for quite some time. I haven’t decided if it will be a cote of some kind or a cloak. It will depend on how I combine the designs and how much room I have. I will probably make a belt and pouches out of leather to satisfy the variety rule. It would be more beneficial to make shoes, but the time constraints may be to tight at this point.

Advanced · Historic Advanced · Historically Focused

Gwendolyn verch Morgaine

Location: Barony of Three Rivers, Calontir

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Advanced

About Gwendolyn: I have been in the SCA off and on since 1996, but I’ve solidly active for the past 12-15 years (I’ve lost count). I’m honored to serve as the Baroness of Three Rivers. I’ve been sewing most of my life. I learned to sew from my father, who sat me on his lap at the sewing machine and made doll clothes with me. I have a BS in Costume History and Design and an MA in Clothing Textiles and Interiors with a focus on Historic clothing and textiles. I’m always looking to push myself with new times, places, and techniques.

Her Project: I will be making a Finnish outfit based on the Eura Grave 56. The grave is believed to be that of a well dressed woman in her 40s and dates from the mid 11th century. I have long been fascinated with the intricate spiral aprons popular in Finland, and decided that this was an opportunity to try my hand at it.

Display Only · Intermediate · Modern Recreationist · Modern Recreationist Intermediate

Isibol of Three Rivers

Location: Barony of Three Rivers, Calontir

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Intermediate (Display Only)

About Isabol: This is my third go at the SCA. This time I have been in about 2 years. I have made a few things but none of them are great. Currently I am taking an online class to learn how to read patterns and really use a sewing machine. My big SCA love is cooking and I am interested in equestrian. I also like to look nice so I am trying to get to where I enjoy sewing.

Her Project: I am still struggling with a decision on what to do but I have been trying to motivate myself to make garb so I am going for it.

Intermediate · Modern Recreationist · Modern Recreationist Intermediate

Lisette of Three Rivers

Location: Barony of Three Rivers, Calontir

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Intermediate

About Lisette: I have been in the SCA for about a year and a half and sewing for about two years longer still. I sew quite a bit now, but all of the garb I’ve made has been in a very feminine style. I’ve never made pants before, so this outfit will be a bit of a challenge because it is a more masculine style (and includes pants!). The outfit, once complete, will tie in with my (mostly) italian courtesan persona.

Her Project: I plan to make a Venetian courtesan outfit. There are descriptions of many Venetian women, courtesans and not, “apparrelled like Men, in a doublet close to the body, and large breeches open at the knees, after the Spanish fashion, both of carnation silke or satten” (Fynes Moryson’s Itinerary c. 1590). For my entry I will make an undershirt, doublet and breeches, a cloak, snood and jewelry in the style described by Moryson.

Beginner · Historic Beginner · Historically Focused

Michael Ledger

Location: Barony of Three Rivers, Calontir

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Beginner

About Michael: Coming back to the sca after a bit of an absence, have not created a lot of garb. Generally more comfortable in the realm of combat, but do know how to sew. The above will be a challenge, but an interesting one!

His Project: 14th century bohemian fighting attire. Arming cap, coat of arms suitable for combat, new combat legs including cloth/leather chausses. Heraldic surcoat displaying arms.