Advanced · Historic Advanced · Historically Focused

Joana de Bairros

From: Southron Gaard, Lochac

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Advanced

Project Update Blog: Joana de Bairros blog

About Joana: I have been involved in the SCA for 19 years in the Barony of Southron Gaard which was originally in the Kingdom of Caid and is now in the Kingdom of Lochac. I have sewed for most of that time. Until recently I did mostly Italian dresses which can be seen here – https://elisabettafoscari.wordpress.com/la-guardaroba-di-elisabetta/. More recently however I have wanted to explore my Portuguese heritage through the SCA and have therefore spent much of this year researching and reading about everything related to 16th century Portugal to help develop my Portuguese persona of Joana. I also love cooking and have cooked several feasts for my group, the biggest was for Midwinter Coronation last year.

Her Blog: Joana de Bairros

Her Project: I am making an outfit suitable for an upper class lady from around 1510-1530 in Portugal. This is to fit in with my persona of Joana. My inspiration is primarily the St Auta altarpiece which was painted between 1522-5 but I will also be using Garcia Fernandes painting of the Martyrs of Lisbon as inspiration for my outer layer. My pinterest board on Portuguese fashion is a good place to view these and other images https://www.pinterest.nz/elisabettaf/portuguese-fashion/ I have been developing my knowledge of this period of Portugese dress recently and have made a couple of outfits already in this style. I have some particularly lovely brocade in my heraldic colours of green and gold I want to use for this project. The outer layer I have wanted to make for ages as it looks pretty and practical. I would like to cook a Portuguese style dinner as my other item using the Portuguese cookbook “Um tradado da cozinha portuguesa do século XV” which was written just before the period of my dress.

Layer 1

This is the underwear layer of my 16th century upper class Portuguese outfit for a woman. It consists of a chemise and petticoat. The chemise is based on one worn in a portrait of Queen Catherine of Austria who was Queen of Portugal and the petticoat is made using the Alcega pattern of a ‘skirt for a fat woman’. Both items are fully hand sewn using mostly whip stitch! The chemise is made from cotton/linen and has gold trim around the neckline. The petticoat is made from an embroidered polyester taffeta.

I had to put an extra gusset in the side of the chemise as the arm was too narrow which has resulted in the sleeve sitting a bit short under the arm. You can’t really tell unless you are staring at my armpit however. I did not off set the corner of the sleeve and the body of the chemise enough so will do that differently next time.

The petticoat went very well and I also put a wool layer in the hem to add extra padding. I would have put a bit more fabric in the back and made the ties shorter but overall I am very happy with it!

Layer 2

A dress in the style of 1520s Portugal made from green silk and gold brocade. The bodice is interlined with two layers of a linen/cotton canvas that are padstitched together to make it firmer and lined with a ecru coloured linen. The dress is trimmed with a green velvet ribbon that has a very narrow gold bobbin lace style trim on both edges. The sleeves are lined with pink silk and the bottom of the sleeve folds over to show the lining at the cuff and this is trimmed with gold lace and pink pearls. The seams are machine sewn and all fabric pieces were overlocked with a machine zig-zag seam. The rest is sewn by hand, mostly using whip stitch!

Layer 4

Dinner!  I invited a Spanish friend of mine over for dinner as the final element to compliment my dress.  There is only one surviving Portuguese cookbook from my period in time which dates from the late 15th and early 16th century so would have been used around the time of Joana.  It is called Um tradado da cozinha portuguesa do século XV or O Livro de Cozinha da Infanta D. Maria de Portugal.  Both are modern titles attached to a book of recipes that was written around the turn of the 16th century and then taken by Maria, the niece of the Portuguese King João to Naples when she married Alexander Farnese.  

From this book I cooked:

Galinha mourisca (Moorish Chicken)

Pastéis de leite (Milk pastries – really a Portuguese custard tart)

Unfortunately it is a fairly limited range of recipes with a focus on meat dishes and sweets so vegetable options were limited.  I therefore decided to use the 1520 Libre del Coch by Robert da Nola.  This is a Spanish book rather than Portuguese but allowed me to keep an Iberian flavour to my dinner.  The date of 1520 is contemporaneous with Joana too.  My guest for the evening has a Spanish persona so this was a nice way to acknowledge her too.  

From this book I cooked:

POTAJE DE CEBOLLAS QUE DICEN CEBOLLADA (A Pottage of Onions called Cebollada)

BERENJENAS A LA MORISCA (Moorish Eggplant)

Both the Portugese and Spanish recipes can be accessed via the Medieval Cookery website – http://medievalcookery.com/etexts.html.

Final comments:

The food was all delicious and was very pleased with how it turned out.  The eggplant was my favourite, the onion my husband’s and my guest liked the sauce from the chicken on the bread.  The custard tarts were everyone’s favourite!

(A PDF containing further commentary about this layer is available at the bottom of the page)

Layer 4+

Additional Layer One: I decided once I put on the dress that I really, really, really did not like the first chemise I made. It didn’t sit right and it itched! I decided therefore to make a new chemise using a much lighter-weight cotton. I constructed it exactly the same as the first one in that it is all handsewn. The trim is in the same place but a different trim. It keeps to the source image though of alternating wavy and straight trim. I made the ruffle around the neck much narrower than in the first version to be more in keeping with the Catherine of Austria painting. The other main change I made was off setting the sleeve and the body of the chemise much more to provide more room under the arm of the chemise. This was an area I particularly disliked in the first one and I find the sits so much better.

Bonus Points

Beginner · Modern Beginner · Modern Recreationist Intermediate

Jocelyn ap Grifith

Location: Southron Gaard, Lochac

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Beginner

About Jocelyn: Hi, I’m Jocelyn, I’ve recently become the captain of archers in my barony after only a year in the SCA. I need proper garb for myself and have been lacking in the motivation and confidence to start on actually making something as im really worried I’ll make a mistake that ruins the whole thing. I have done sewing in the past, but usually it’s just repairs or something small. I’m really excited and nervous for this challenge as it will be difficult for me I think, but I’m ready to have some cloths for events that are actually mine and that fit me properly!

Her Project: 14th century fitted dress and under dress with embroidery or black work on it. I’ve wanted one of awhile and love the flowy skirts! As it’s my first one, it will be more practical and so more for a working class person in length, but as fancy as I can make it in everything else!

Intermediate · Modern Recreationist · Modern Recreationist Intermediate

Lady Katherine Stewart

Location: Southron Gaard, Lochac

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Intermediate

About Katherine: I have been involved in the SCA since 2006. I had 3 young boys who loved anything to do with vikings and knights so when the opportunity came up to go to a tournament we went. Basically we have not stopped. My sons are grown now and 2 have joined the NZ army, but I still love it. I have always loved sewing and making things so it’s my happy place. I am making my entry for a very good friend and it will hopefully be challenging.

Her Project: (undecided)

Layer 1

I completed the underwear layer of the Norse outfit I am making. I had to make the pattern first and that meant an afternoon of measuring my model and snacks and chatting. Then I made a mock up from a sheet and we had a fitting, after a couple of tweaks I have completed the chemise. Handsewn and a little embroidery around the neckline.

Layer 2

This month I made the 2nd layer which is the dress/tunic of the viking outfit I am making. I am late getting it done but life has been super busy this month. My model and I have not been able to get together so I don’t have a photo of her in it. will work on it over december. I have hand sewn all the seams and the wool was great to work with.

Bonus Points

Intermediate · Modern Recreationist · Modern Recreationist Intermediate

Violetta Vasari

Location: Barony of Southron Gaard, Lochac

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Intermediate

Project Update Blog: Sarta de Donna

About Violetta: I have been a member of the SCA for about 15 years now and am quite good at sewing but due to difficulties with my arms and hands can’t quite do it all by hand but if its visible then its hand sewn. I have completed the Italian Renaissance Costume Challenge nine times and am currently working on my 10th, have won it once but I really only take part for fun not the competition. My person in the SCA is really mid 16th century Florentine, who travels around a lot, but I have long been fascinated by the Venetian Turkish coats seen in Titians portraits and this brought me to this outfit I want to make inspired by Roxelana.

Her Project: I am looking at creating an outfit inspired by the portraits of Roxelana, Hurrem Sultan wife of Sulyeiman, so Turkish early to mid 1500s. I believe this will comprise of many items I am yet to find the correct names for but will do some research on this very soon.

Layer 1

Underwear layer for mid 16th century Ottoman ladies garb as possibly worn by Hurrem Sultan consisting of a kamis and salwar. The camis is cut from very light white cotton voile and machine sewn but hand felled seams. It is based on a piece held in the Topkapi Museum (I think it was)which has very intricate side panelling with gathered lower sections. I made this piece because I have a previous one that no longer fits but was so very comfortable. The picture of Ottoman women show they were quite long, below the knee and really sheer so i chose the lightest fabric I had in my stash Sleeves were left very wide as this is whats seen in the portraits of Hurrem. The other underwear piece is a pair of salwar pants, made based on a pattern I found online (https://sableroseblog.wordpress.com/2018/05/02/turkish-pants-v-1-survey/) which nearly broke my brain trying to follow! The fabric is again a lightweight cotton but in a nice baby blue. I did some research and discovered several portraits of the ladies with coloured pants and this fabric was what fell out at me while searching so it obviously wanted to be used. My arms were being dumb and sore so these pants are machine sewn although I made sure to french seam them for neatness and strength. I added a tie for the waist with tassell ends rather than the method described of just wrapping a scarf around and folding over the pants, I didn’t feel this would be comfortable for me.

all my fabric is cotton as I can not wear linen, it breaks me out in a rash due to my grass allergy, it is also my own challenge to use only what I have in my stash as I have no budget for purchasing anything right now.

Bonus Points