Intermediate · Modern Recreationist · Modern Recreationist Intermediate

Æva Dyer

Location: Barony of Caerthe, Outlands

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Intermediate

Project Update Blog: Of Green and Gold

About Æva: I have been playing in the SCA for just about 4 years now. Sewing wise my mother taught me as a child and I have continued on making Halloween Costumes, Cosplay, and now historical garments. My recent sewing has been keeping my child in garb, and finishing off leftover projects from college… I sew often but finishing things is a weak point. I usually play 10th Century Anglo Saxon this is a huge challenge for me as we go from clever triangles and rectangles to curves and yards upon yards of fabric. The first dress I was given help from the lovely The Honorable Lady Isabelle de Calais, as she created a first draft of the bodice based on her own. I also referenced much of her work as I rushed to complete the dress in under a week. When I am not sewing I am playing with illumination and other fiber arts.

Her Project: The plan is to remake a noble woman’s 1560’s Venetian dress. I had made one for our Baronial 12th night this past year. However, the dress needs to be reworked and I would like to see a more complete outfit. If you have seen the Venetian Province of Treviso, Republic of Venice Paolo Caliari (Veronese), 1561: Detail from fresco Treviso, Villa Barbaro That is basically the color and cut of the dress I plan to make. However, this piece will be more Modern Recreationist as I do not have the knowledge or skill to bring this to a Historically Focused masterpiece. Why? I honestly fell in love with this dress! It is comfy yet elegant and I would like to do it justice not just leave it as a one-off. The Layers I plan to make a set of Drawers, fix the Camicia neckline, cut a new bodice to correct the errors I made on the first dress, re-do the pleats on the skirt properly and attach to the bodice, make a Partlet, make a pair of sleeves, making a zimarra, make a zibellini. I plan to hand sew, a number of pieces but because of the time limit will be using machine stitching as needed. I will also attempt to document my progress via my blog ofgreenandgold.com

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Drawers- 16th Century Italy lady. Drawers have been documented by Janet Arnold and extent pieces exist. I made these based off a tutorial by Maestrina Chiaretta di Fiore (www.kitsclothingcollection.com) using the Bara Method outlined by the Modern Maker. I started by making a custom pattern based on the tutorial. First I made a set of Bara tapes. From there I drew the pattern out on paper before cutting some duckybunny to make a mockup. However once sewn up I found that the gusset was not needed as the inseam was long enough. Once the gusset was removed and the mockup resewn I ran about a bit to make sure I would not split them. Satisfied that the drawers fit I cut the final pair in a heavy linen. I also cut a cuff to finish the bottom. I machine stitched the main seams but chose to finish the front and back by hand to prevent fraying. I pressed the cuff in 4ths and used tacking stitch to attach them to the leg. I used the machine to top stitch them on. I folded the top over an inch to make a casing for the drawstring.

The drawstring I made using wool yarn I had dyed prior to this challenge with marigold and a lucet. The lucet was a new skill for me as I hadn’t owned one prior to this year and my last attempt with a borrowed one ended in a mess. Once I figured it out I made a length to use.

Over all I am pleased with making a working pair of pants. Pants are my nemesis and I haven’t made a working pair until now. The drawers are very comfy and I look forward to wearing them to events over my usual leggings.

Bonus Points

Historic Intermediate · Historically Focused · Intermediate

Tellina di Giuseppe da Fiesole

Location: Barony of Rivenoak, West

Category/Level: Historically Focused, Intermediate

About Tellina: I’m known as Tellina di Guiseppe da Fiesole. I live in the Barony of Rivenoak in the Principality of Cynagua in the Kingdom of the West. I’ve only been playing for about three years. I currently serve as baronial exchequer and prima consortia (baronial head of court). I do a small amount of costuming, but generally I’m generally known as a cook. In cooking I also prefer to focus on the Italian peninsula.

Her Project: My area of interest is 1450-1470 Florence. I’m particularly inspired by the paintings of Piero della Francesca, so I intend to create an outfit based on his paintings. Clothing depicted in his paintings generally consists of a camicia (shift), gamurra (kirtle type dress) and giornea (sleeveless overdress) or cioppa (sleeved overdress). I’m not exactly certain what the accessory will be, but I’ve been eyeing belts.

Update: I’ve updated my plan and inspiration since the website profile was created, so I’ll no longer be taking as much inspiration solely from the paintings of Piero della Francesca, but will focus on aspects of dress appropriate for travel in inclimate weather including hallmarks of pilgrim dress still appropriate to somewhere between 1450-1480 Tuscany.

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I’m working on an outfit appropriate to my later half of the 15th century Florentine persona had she gone on pilgrimage. Under pinnings are not widely depicted in my little window of time/place (okay, not for women anyways). It’s reasonably clear that women wore both camicia and calze, as they can be glimpsed at the neckline and hem. In the particular period I’m looking at ~1450-1480 it does not appear that shifts are yet gathered at the neck nor particularly voluminous at the sleeves, and there is some earlier and later evidence of gored construction, so that’s what I opted for. My shift was 100% hand sewn in linen cloth. The calze (stockings), again lacking extant garments or tremendous detail, I looked slightly further and based my seam placement in a german stocking depiction. The stockings had machine structural seams and hand finishing. They are made of wool.

Bonus Points