About Charles: My name is Maitre Charles de Bourbon, and I have been in he SCA for 22 years. I have been a member of the Order of the Laurel for more than 12 years, and my primary areas of focus is clothing of Burgundy in the early 15thc. This project ties directly to my persona and will be for me for 12th night (even though we aren’t having a 12th night, it is still a goal)
His Project: I am planning on making 14th/15th c. transitional outfit including: shirt, pourpoint, houppelande, and hat/hood. The outer layer and accessories will feature real, period fur, 100% HA fabrics, and will mainly be hand-sewn. (long seams will be done by machine). This is a piece that I have wanted to make for some time inspired by The Falcon’s Bath tapestries in The Cloisters. These are Flemish tapestries, which is also where I focus a great deal of my research.
About Tanneke: I’ve been a member of the SCA off and on since the 90’s and taught myself to sew. Thanks to the Internet I’ve learned so much about design and history and have access to documents and paintings that have really enhanced my clothing recreation efforts. I was looking to do something a little bit different this time around in the SCA and came across Drea Lead’s Flemish Workingwomen’s site and made several sets of Workingwomen’s Flemish garb. While doing further research I came across Kenau Simonsdochter Hasselaer (sometimes with an S). She lived in the late 16th century in Haarlem and what I found really exciting is coming across an engraving of the clothing I had made–historical proof for what I was creating and also this experience made history come alive for me. Kenau was a historical woman I could relate to and has a fascinating story. My construction skills have been slower to develop and with this challenge I want to really pay attention to the small details and take the time to produce a quality, well made garment. This recreation will expand the wardrobe for my persona and will present a mix of opportunities to practice skills I’ve been working on and challenge myself to attempt new ones. I have not yet created a high necked smock with ruffs at the throat and wrists, padded shoulder rolls to the bodice, or a bodice dress. I’m also going to make my first pair of shoes and develop a swallow tailed veil as seen in the image.
Her Project: After having completed Flemish garb I wanted to challenge myself to go further. After doing some more digging I came across the image of The Garden of Holland, an allegorical engraving by Philip Galle of a woman dressed in the manner of Kenau Simonsdochter Hasselaers from the late 16th century Haarlem near Flanders. The Garden of Holland is a heraldic engraving from a series of 51 prints of the Duke of Brabent and was printed by Plantijin Moretus around 1600. The design is from 1563. (www.gehuegenannederland.nl/?/items/BVB01:MB1563DIPK) I’ve been wanting to attempt recreating these garments for some time and this challenge presents an opportunity for me to do so. As Kenau was a merchant class woman (she was widowed and took over her husband’s wood supply business) and this garment is styled after Kenau this garment would be worn by a middle class woman. Further research revealed a heavy Spanish influence on society’s color palate and was rather somber: black, greys, browns, murreys (dark reddish purple) and sanguines (reddish brown reminiscent of dried blood). In looking at the color palate of depictions of KSH I also saw lots of orangey reds, black velvet partlets and guards, tans, golden browns, greens, and even light pinky purples. Worsted wools, a silk like wool, were often used by the merchant class, as silks and satins were reserved for those with larger incomes and nobility. For this recreation I’ve chosen modern silk wool: a golden yellow for the underkirtle and a bright orangey red for the doublet dress. The sleeves look to be a darker color and I haven’t yet determined if they were attached at the armscye of the garment or were detachable and held on with pins. A white linen apron is often worn so I will be creating a white apron with my own acknowledgement of this year. Along the hem I will embroider “Hoc quoque transbit 2020” (this too shall pass) and a stylized heraldic corona virus.
15th century high necked smock. I sewed the main seams by machine and hand finished all seams by flat felling. Any visible sewing is done by hand also. I think I would add a top tie on the neck to hold the collar and ruff closer to the face.
About Yehoshua : I do like to sew, but recently it has been more mundane stuff. Currently, I am working on a modern dress shirt and waistcoat. I have been in the SCA on and off since about 1992. (Last 10 years mostly off). I started in the Barony of Carolingia in College and received the Drachenwald Service away for founding the Shire of Ma’ale Giborim (Israel) which is now defunct. I am also the person who created the initial East Kingdom Website. I started getting back into the SCA about 2 years with an attempt to revive the shire in Israel and then when I moved back to the USA.
His Project: Still working on the details, but I am working on an outfit based on a group portrait of a civic guild in Amsterdam in 1588, based on pictures at the Rijksmuseum. The actual outfit will probably be a mix of details from several of the figures in that painting. The doublet and trousers will be made of wool (Colors TBD, based on what I have in my stash and what I can find locally) https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/collection/SK-C-378 My persona has been based on the relative tolerance of the Netherlands for some years. It was at the time a pretty decent place to be Jewish. I have actually visited the Portuguese synagogue in Amsterdam on several occasions, which was built about 100 years later. This is similar to the style I have done for some time, but will hopefully be done better.