About Eyvor: Having been in the SCA for 15 years, most of my clothing and energy has been devoted to moving around the Viking-age world and with some dabbling into Rus. I’ve patterned clothing, handsewn full outfits, and generally dabbled in a decent amount in a number of things. I haven’t sewn much as of late, but I would consider myself to be competent enough with a machine that I can tackle anything with enough determination. The outfit isn’t one that fits what I normally do, but I wanted something different that would give me more variety in my SCA wardrobe. I expect that it should be a good challenge, but one that I can tackle and will result in a solid project that I’m pleased with.
Her Project: I’ve wanted a kirtle and cotehardie for a very long time, and actually bought fabric for it as everything was starting to shut down. I’m looking at doing an outfit roughly suited to middle class in the late 14th century. I want something comfortable, that I can wear in a number of situations, and accuracy is not as important to me for this. It’s a project to stretch my skills and to make me happy. This is being entered in the recreationst category primarily because I don’t have documentation for some of the colors and the exact stamping. The horse and raven symbolize both my household and my own heraldry – a white raven on a red background for Hrafnheim, and a white horse on blue for me. (My heraldry a blue horse on white, but I *will* get white quite dirty, so decided something else would look better.) As of now, the plan is as follows: *Short-sleeved white shift *Sleeveless linen kirtle *Long-sleeved parti-colored cotehardie (one side stamped with white ravens. the other with white horses) *accessories: paternoster, necklace, and earrings (all glass. all beads made by me for a non-sewing skill, glasswork)
About Flavia: I have been in the SCA for about 11 years. This is my first endeavor in making a complete outfit based on a historic piece. I’ve made bits and pieces before, but it all went with my old persona. I’ve changed personas since joining the SCA and I am now a Roman courtesan. This outfit ties into my persona perfectly. In the SCA I have done quite a bit of embroidery. I’ve also focused on teaching, but in recent years I’ve been away working on my mundane career. (Which is teaching.). I also have dabbled in the bardic arts, calligraphy & illumination, and the making of largesse.
Her Project: I am looking to create a Roman women’s outfit roughly around the eruption of Vesuvius. My inspiration are these statues at the Getty Villa (which are recasts of the originals that are in Naples.) plus a statue at the Boston Museum of Fine Arts. I plan on hopefully including a strophium, peplos, tunica, and if I’m lucky and the metal gods are smiling upon me, handmade buttons! Oh, and a palla for good measure. I also plan in making a leather circlet similar to the ones(which may or may not have been leather…since it’s a statue we won’t ever know) on the statues.
About Ian’ka: I have been in the SCA for 27 years. I’ve been sewing for about 22 of those years off and on. I am a scribe and researcher but have been known to make clothes for royalty and of course for my family of my husband and my son. This project will directly link into my persona and I have been struggling with motivation to make things in the last few years. I’m just now starting to get the urg to make clothes and was quite delighted to hear about this challenge. The clothes are things I’ve been wanting to make and now will have a reason to make them. I’m excited to pattern out a new style of underdress and to change up to slightly more Byzantine influence on the overdress. I’ve been meaning to make myself a lightweight coat for quite some time and I’m excited to finally use some coveted fabric in my stash. I think this project will challenge me in skill set as I will be developing new patterns for the underdress and since my motivation has been a bit lacking of late the reminders and the pressure from others in my household who are working on clothes will help keep me on track.
Her Project: The pieces will be what may have been worn by women in North Western Russia in the 9th-10th Centuries especially with groups that were traded with or influenced by the Norse traders. My SCA household is a mix of Rus and Norse personas and as one of the Heads of the House and a Duchess the clothes should show the prosperity of being a wealthy trader’s wife in the 9th to 10th Centuries. A thin linen shift will start the outfit which will be a new endeavor for me as I don’t usually where that layer. Then the underdress will be based upon the fine linen garment found in the Pskov find which has a gathered neckline, this is a new construction technique for me. This fabric is a wonderful check patterned fabric in red/white. Checked fabric has been found in a number of graves in the North (Haithabu) and Russia. The linen overdress will be based more on the Rus with the silk details as noted in the Pskov finds but with the decorations from the Byzantine influences. The silks found in the Pskov grave show the Byzantine motifs in portions of their weave. there are many examples of this style of decoration in church frescoes, period bracelets and in grave finds. The plan is for plain silk that will be accentuated with tablet woven trim in either linen or silk. The trim will be either made by myself or my husband. A wool coat will be from handwoven fabric, accented by silk and based on kaftans from period descriptions and paintings. I am yet undecided on if it will be center buttoning or side buttoning as both were worn. If I have time I plan on making a new set of beaded jewelry for this outfit to compliment it all.
The is the shift (underwear layer) for my 10th Century Rus woman from Pskov’s outfit. For most this would have been the underdress and long sleeved but as I am the wife of a wealthy merchant and modernly a resident of a very warm Kingdom, the layer is a thin sleeveless linen shift. My underdress will be the next layer. The shift would have been used as sleepwear etc. The Pskov grave find did have evidence of very fine linen but it was mostly disintegrated in situ.
The linen is handkerchief weight linen and I used my standard pattern for the front back and side gussets and gores that can be seen in many Slavic and Norse grave finds. This construction is square with truncated triangles for gussets and gores. The gussets allow the garment to nip into the natural waist to give a bit of shape.
I cut the neckline wide and slightly scooped the armscye to allow good movement and to leave a clean line for where the square edges of the pieces met in the armscye.
The long seams were machine sewn but the straight cut edging (not bias cut edging) was applied by hand. The seams and hem were also had finished.
This is my underdress which is based on the evidence of a linen garment with a gathered neckline bound in the same fabric which was edged in silk at cuffs and hem in Pskov. The fabric is a plaid cotton since I did not have plaid linen but its wonderfully bright red and white and is representative of other checked fabric has been found in a number of graves in the North (Haithabu) and Russia. I chose a fine red silk for the cuffs and hem. Color is very common in clothing of the period especially rich reds.
All of the long seams are sewn by machine (1947 Singer Featherweight) and then finished by hand with a whip stitch by folding the seam allowances together and tucking the raw edges under to one side of the seam. The neckline was pleated with a single pass of the needle and thread with a basic gather and was then bound with straight cut edging of the same fabric as the dress. That edging also transitioned into the ties for the front of the neckline. The dress was sewn in Gutermann polyester thread but the silk was finished off with Guterman silk thread.
I was more generous in the cut down the neckline for ease of summer wear in Atenveldt than was was shown in the period example. I do plan on wearing this with my Norse kit as well and it will be a good addition to my wardrobe as a wealthy merchant woman on the borders of Norse and Rus culture in Pskov.
This garment has been one of the hardest items to pattern for my weight lifter physique and even the final garment required a redo of the entire shoulder to floor seams after I placed the sleeves too high (sewing too late at night is not a good thing). In the end I am most pleased with it. The garment is very comfortable and I will be excited to wear it for future events.
I will probably make another of these dresses but they are a lot of work for an underdress compared to my normal pattern but it was fun to learn a new thing and learn more about how to adjust and build patterns for different body styles. I do think on the next one I make, like the test pattern I made I will make the ties a bit thinner. These aren’t quite behaving and flop around a bit. 🙂
Location: Barony of Tir Ysgithr, Kingdom of Atenveldt
Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Intermediate
About Magdalen: 28 years in this month, I am apprenticed to Sir Domingo Diego Diaz y Martin, OL. I have sewn many items of clothing over the years, and am now striving toward greater authenticity. I enjoy clothing that serves to enhance my bardic and heraldic pursuits and this particular gown is so that I may better represent as the Kingdom of Atenveldt Ministers for Arts and Sciences, my current office.
Her Project: I am re-creating the bright blue gown and horned headdress as worn by Christine de Pizan in multiple illuminated pages.
About Ponar’ia: I joined the SCA in 2007. Originally I fought rapier until I discovered a tendon issue that made the sport extra dangerous for me to participate in, so I supported those who could fight with water-bearing and marshaling. About 6 years ago a friend discovered I could draw and took me to the Atenveldt Kingdom’s Scriptorium to learn illumination for award scrolls and I was hooked! (I am currently serving as the Deputy Scribe for the Barony of Tir Ysgithr) Some of the women hosting the Kingdom Scriptorium were talented Laurels, who in addition to illumination, also made their own garb and ceremonial garb for the royals. Inspired, I looked into sewing my own garb too. For 5 years, I have sewn maybe two haphazard dresses a year in the 3 months before Estrella War. 2 years ago I started to make a more concerted effort to sew something/anything on the machine on a regular basis in an attempt to tame the fabric horde. My skills have improved a lot, but I am still learning a new thing every other week and struggle to make that first cut into a new bolt of fabric. I will be sewing using modern recreationalist methods as I just learned how to hand sew a hem last Estrella War.
Her Project: My husband needs Mongolian garb. Aiming for styles of the 13th-14th century museum finds such as the ones displayed on this website. https://onlineacademiccommunity.uvic.ca/mongols/clothing-of-royalty/ From the site above I plan to recreate the long lined caftan using a block printed indigo fabric and the Half sleeved vest in a brown brocade. I am interested in the Gesi leggings but can’t find any additional reference to them, so I am unsure of how they were worn or made so I will turn to an earlier period for a pants reference. The pants I plan to sew will be based on the pants uncovered in the Yanghai graveyard in China’s Tarim Basin, the scientists report (made May 22, 2014 in Quaternary International) describes and gives photo’s of the nomad’s trouser’s being strait legged with a wide reenforced crouch and made of wool. I will attempt to make them out of summer weight wool or cotton twill. (If wool I will probably have to line them for my husband’s comfort & sanity.) While these trousers pre-date the Deel like Caftan & Vest I selected (having been made in the 2nd millennium B.C.) I believe my husband will feel more comfortable in these trousers, than the chap-like Gesi whose underlayer I could not find reference to. I know the Mongols must have worn something between their nether regions and their saddle to become the successful riding culture that they were, but I just can’t find it and my man needs pants. reference for pants; https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S1040618214002808 The last layer of complexity will be my first attempt at leather working. I plan to try and cut and assemble a Mongolian style quiver for my husband’s arrows and perhaps a belt to hang the quiver from. I have some varied leather gifted to me and a small collection of pelts that might work toward this venture.