Historic Intermediate · Historically Focused · Intermediate

Adelaide Sarsfield

Location: Cum an Iolair, Calontir

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Intermediate

About Adelaide: I began in Ansteorra, took a decade-long break when I had my daughter, and arrived in Calontir around 2012. I enjoy many skills within the SCA, but I am probably best known for sharing those skills with the children of the kingdom, during my time as Kingdom Minister of Youth.

Her Project: I’ve had some lovely fabric that has been begging to become an Italian gown, so I will make a 15th Century Venetian gown. There are a few historical paintings that show a lovely front-laced gown, such as the woman in pink in Ghirlandaio’s Birth of St. John the Baptist.

Beginner · Modern Beginner · Modern Recreationist

Catherine Collette

Location: Coeur d’Ennui, Calontir

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Beginner

About Catherine: I’m new to the SCA – I recently relocated from Barony of Axemoor to Coeur d’Ennui in the midst of the pandemic. I had planned to join my more experienced friends in Society for the Gulf Wars, but because of the pandemic, I’m doing my best to be active in the virtual community. I’ve been sewing off-and-on for many years, though until recently, my costumes have generally been on-offs for parades and theatrical performances, where they are not viewed up close and internal construction details aren’t as important. To that end, I’m excited to use this challenge to help me grow my technical skill and explore new historic techniques.

Her Project: My plan is for a completed outfit inspired primarily by the Hounds suit of the circa 1430 Stuttgart playing card deck. These cards reflect upper-class women in Germany (Upper Rhineland) in the early part of the 15th century. The outfit will include a chemise/hemd, gown (with detachable sleeves), and houppelande. In keeping with the playing card depictions, the outfit would likely be similar to that worn by a woman in the Queen’s service. For my fourth layer, I’ll be cooking a historic feast, hopefully using some foraged ingredients. While the outfit is not for a specific activity, as someone new to the SCA who has not yet attended any in-person events due to the pandemic, my goal is to produce a complete set of garb to show to good effect at my first event.

Advanced · Historic Advanced · Historically Focused

Charles de Bourbon

Location: Madrone, An Tir

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Advanced

Project Update Blog:  The Brazen Burgundian

About Charles: My name is Maitre Charles de Bourbon, and I have been in he SCA for 22 years. I have been a member of the Order of the Laurel for more than 12 years, and my primary areas of focus is clothing of Burgundy in the early 15thc. This project ties directly to my persona and will be for me for 12th night (even though we aren’t having a 12th night, it is still a goal)

His Project: I am planning on making 14th/15th c. transitional outfit including: shirt, pourpoint, houppelande, and hat/hood. The outer layer and accessories will feature real, period fur, 100% HA fabrics, and will mainly be hand-sewn. (long seams will be done by machine). This is a piece that I have wanted to make for some time inspired by The Falcon’s Bath tapestries in The Cloisters. These are Flemish tapestries, which is also where I focus a great deal of my research.

Historic Intermediate · Historically Focused · Intermediate

Chelsey of Gloucester

Location: Canton of the Towers, East

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Intermediate

Project Update Blog: The Seashelly Tales

About Chelsey: I’ve been a member for over 10 years. I do sew regularly and my persona could use some additional pieces of clothing. I have participated in a group challenge somewhere else a few years ago and am interested in this personal challenge. Love this challenge idea. Great to unite people from all over the Known World.

Her Project: Tudor/Elizabethan Outfit – still working out exact patterns/designs including a heavily embroidered cap, chemise, stays, farthingdale, kirtle & outer gown.

Intermediate · Modern Recreationist · Modern Recreationist Intermediate

Eva Neri

Location: Calontir

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Intermediate

About Eva : I’ve been in the SCA for about a year and some months now. I’ve only recently been able to be more active because I have a new job that allows me the time to meet up more consistently. I am a very big sewing lover and I have also been recently getting into fighting in the SCA. Who says you cant look good while fighting?! Regardless this doesnt tie too much into my persona, it’s me exploring to maybe find a person through fashion for the SCA so we shall see! I think time management with work and school will be my toughest part of this, but I’m hoping the drive of a competition will keep me on track!eva

Her Project: I went back and forth A LOT (which is why this entry is cutting it really close) between the late 1400s and the mid 1300s. They both have looks i desire greatly and in the end I went with late 1400s because of the fabric I have on hand that I’ve been dying to use. I aim to go for a late 1400s noble woman’s dress. I am basing it around a few paintings I have found and Identified with the very late 1400s and even running into the very early 1500s. I’ve been very excited to make a chemise for a long time because I know it’ll have so many uses and this lovely purple brocade I bought earlier this year with look wonderfully in the folds of the dress.

Historic Intermediate · Historically Focused · Intermediate

Frieda Ocoilean

Location: East Kingdom

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Intermediate

About Frieda : well, I and my husband joined a little over three years ago after I had open-heart surgery as a hobby to keep me busy, I have been sewing on and off for over 15 years, not a master. I do show interest in other skills and try to pick them up, but I love sewing. and I really hope to if only at least complete this challenge with a sense of accomplishment, I know that will be huge but I would love to take the challenge and place honestly by I feel that would be great.

Her Project: I am going for mid 14-1500, I believe it is as close as I can get that as possible based on the patterns I was able to purchase. it is a piece I have been wanting to make for a while. I do usually sew by hand so that makes this a very big challenge for me. I plan on making the chemise, underdress, overdress and something completely new to me, I will be making a leather chatelaine belt.

Layer 1

This is the first layer an chemise , with additional chest cover , and bonnet . Was going for 14-15 century. I still have another three full layers. Everything is all hand sewn

Layer 2

My second layer , first one over my chemise , is made with a tan and dark brown layer , i made fabric buttons for the first time . everything is hand sewn like the last layer . i intend on using december to do my final outer layer which is a thinker material great for the winter . like i said before my era is 14-15 century , and i would say my entry is middle class ish

Layer 3

The last sewing layer is to be a jacket or overdress layer , I intended to use this layer in matching with previous one layers

Bonus Points

Beginner · Modern Beginner · Modern Recreationist

Kaitlyn McCloud

Location: Barony of Axemoor, Gleann Abhann

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Beginner

Her Project Update Blog: The Casual Costumer

About : Hi there, so I am very new to the SCA, roughly a year or so- but with the pandemic I’ve only made it to 3-4 events. I am fairly new to historical sewing but have been making costumes and cosplay for myself as well as a variety groups and Mardi Gras krewes in New Orleans for several years. I also help run the Sewing Squad facebook page, which is a small group of people in my region that want to learn more about sewing skills and history focused garb.

Project: I’m going to be doing a (roughly) 1480-1500c Italian Renaissance set of garments. This will be inspired by a set of paintings from that period, though the fabrics will be different, since I’m picking this period/style to utilize a yellow silk taffeta and a red silk brocade that I already have. I also wanted an opportunity to work on my embroidery and with the heavy ornamentation on the sleeves of this period, hopefully I can get some nice detail work done ( though I’m pinning that as a “stretch” goal, time allowing).

Layer 1

I am checking in my Spanish camisa layer. This is the Spanish renaissance version of the Italian camicia (shift). They are very similar garments with the main distinction from the 1490’s period I am working in being, that the sleeves do a large bell at the end and dangle out of the bottom of the gamurra sleeves instead of tying or buttoning at the cuff. I have added my art reference to the Facbook album- “Mencia de Mendoza with Saint Dominic”, artist contested. I am hoping to do a complete recreation of this painting. She was high nobility in this period and my fabric and notion choices are reflective of that. These shifts were typically either heavily embroidered with blackwork or lace and were often made of fine linen or silk.

I opted for two types of silk-synthetic mix lace after examining the source painting closely. I sourced and purchased 15c reproduction lace for the collar and used lace I already owned for the sleeves and bottom hem. These were hand sewn on with a cream colored silk thread and a whip stitch. The camisa pattern is drafted by me, using art examples, online research of others recreating this period- “15th C Clothing For Men and Women” by THL Peryn Rose Whytehorse, and several books I own- “Patterns of Fashion” by Janet Arnold, Herald, Jacqueline- (1981) “Dress in Renaissance Italy 1400-1500” by John Murray, “Dress in Italian Painting 1460-1500” by Elizabeth Birbari.

I also consulted with the SCA Iberia Facebook group to get more Spanish specific info for this period, and help understanding the fashion differences between them and Milan. The camisa is made of a semi-sheer silk in cream, with gathers at the neck, back and around both sleeves. The inside sleeve raw edges are covered and whipped down with a cream colored twill tape for additional strength, since the cloth is quite thin and prone to unraveling. The neck was bound with a bias tape I made of the same material, with the lace being attached to the edge.

The sleeve and bottom hems are rolled and whip stitched with the lace added at the bottom.

If I could do anything differently- I probably would have picked a different painting. I didn’t realize at the start of this that there is VERY little information know about this artwork, and most of it is contested. They aren’t even sure this is actually Mencia De Mendoza…. So a lot of assumptions were made based on published research of that art. This led me to the ten year period around 1490, and influences from both Milan, and Barcelona as she was tied to both areas. Her fashion in this painting has elements of both cities- the long sleeves of the Spanish camisa, with the tighter fitting sleeves of Milan gamurra dresses at that time. The bodice of the dress isn’t seen in this gown so I had to use other art references from that period and those regions to help me pattern.

Having none of the support garments and very little of the under-dress showing in this art has been a difficult but exciting challenge. It has also given me a little freedom to make creative choices that would normally be limited in a strict recreation with more of the support garments showing.

Bonus Points

Display Only · Intermediate · Modern Recreationist · Modern Recreationist Intermediate

Kristine Nic Tallier

From: Axed Root, Calontir

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Intermediate (Display Only)

Project Update Blog: Stars and Garters

About Kristine: I joined the SCA in middle school when my mother started taking us to meetings. I wasn’t always as excited about it in the beginning, but when I found tablet-weaving, I was hooked. I met my fiance, Vincent, as well as all my closest friends in the society.

Vincent and I came to a deal a long time ago that he would make our garb, since he enjoys it and it just puts me in a foul mood…. but since I’m spearheading this challenge, I feel like I have to put my money where my mouth is and participate. Wish our household luck!

Her project: Years ago, I came upon one of the images below and felt like I fully understood the woman wearing it – and I love her apron. I can’t just make the apron, right? I have to make the whole outfit to go with it. These images are all from the same illumination and are a little later than my usual time period (I’m usually mid-to-late 14thc Scot) being earlyish 15c inspired by images from The Book of Faiz Monseigneur Saint Loys. So, My plan is to make all the layers shown, a chemise, a supportive kirtle (stretch project of additional pin-on sleeves), a silk cotte with embroidery, and a wool over cotte with embroidered embellishments. My accessory will be a tablet woven belt, though I’ll also be making the aforementioned apron. I have other wacky ideas on extra accessory layers, but we’ll see how it goes!

Layer 1

My layer 1 consists of a chemise and a St Birgitta’s Cap. Both are made of white linen and are of machine base construction and hand finished with linen thread.

The chemise is based off the general late period pattern which has been theorized was used in the early 15th century. As I’m in the modern recreationist category, I took a step from what I could document and added a simple embroidered pattern around the neckline and tablet woven trim around the base. The trim is of cotton, as it’s what I had on hand, and was woven by me – the first of many tablet woven projects which will be incorporated into this outfit.

The cap is of basic construction and went MUCH better than my first cap I attempted years ago. It went so well that I’m considering making a second one with some decorative elements.

Layer 4+

  1. Farmhouse Cheddar – Cheesemaking techniques haven’t changed much since medieval times. I’ve made two cheddar rounds, one smoked (ok, burned. I scorched the milk. But I already had the yeast and rennet in it by then, so I went ahead and finished it. Who knows?) and one regular. They’ll age until January when it’s time to take pictures
  2. Beeswax – The beeswax was processed from the yearly rent paid by the bees who live in my yard. The hive shaped piece is mine for the challenge and the bees went out to people from my local group who have taken up the challenge as well.

Bonus Points

Intermediate · Modern Recreationist · Modern Recreationist Intermediate

Magdalen Venturosa

Location: Barony of Tir Ysgithr, Kingdom of Atenveldt

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Intermediate

About Magdalen: 28 years in this month, I am apprenticed to Sir Domingo Diego Diaz y Martin, OL. I have sewn many items of clothing over the years, and am now striving toward greater authenticity. I enjoy clothing that serves to enhance my bardic and heraldic pursuits and this particular gown is so that I may better represent as the Kingdom of Atenveldt Ministers for Arts and Sciences, my current office.

Her Project: I am re-creating the bright blue gown and horned headdress as worn by Christine de Pizan in multiple illuminated pages.

Intermediate · Modern Recreationist · Modern Recreationist Intermediate

Lorenzo Martin

Location: Barony of Namron, Ansteorra

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Intermediate

About Lorenzo : I have been in the SCA off and on since 2005. I love to sew, although I would say my skills are great. It is very relaxing to me and I love to see an outfit come together. It is important to me that as I progress in the SCA to wear outfits that are more appropriate to what my persona would have worn in period, even if the methods and materials are not period.. yet. I am a brewer, a bard, someone who make jewelry, an archer and thrower of knives..

His Project: My persona has shifted in the last year in terms of century so my plans are to make an outfit that would have existed in the Iberian Peninsula roughly mid 1400s. I’ll be researching historical paintings to base it off of. My skills are beginner to intermediate and I’ll be using modern materials and sewing techniques to construct it. My hope is that at the end I’ll have my first piece of garb from that time period for my persona.