Group · Historically Focused · Intermediate

Actreo

Group Members: Baroness Linnet del Grenewode,

Location: Barony of Carolingia, East

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Intermediate

About Actreo: The two of us are a couple who have been in and out of the SCA for years. We heard about the Challenge from people in our local group. We will be making garments that we have wanted to make for a while. The inspiration of this challenge is a gift right now.

Project Update Blog: Crafting Ourselves – An SCA Arts and Sciences Journey

Their Project: We will be making a set of clothes for a high status (Thegn level) man and woman from England in the mid 11th Century. These garments will be based on artwork and writings done in period, as well as fragments from grave finds. We have been researching on this period for a while, but have yet to make a set of historically accurate clothing for the late Anglo Saxon time period. We need a set of court garb, not just pennsic clothes. We will be making for the man a shirt, trousers, tunic and cloak, and for the woman a smock, gown, mantel, and veil, as well as a number of smaller pieces.

Layer 1

We are making clothing suitable for an Anglo Saxon man and his wife who are high status individuals (Thegn level). There is little evidence of how the underlayer of clothing looked in the form of illuminations or grave finds for this time period for anglo saxon culture in England. There are many written sources, particular the words in Old English used for garment types. We used 2 main sources of information for making our decisions on how to make this: Dress in Anglo Saxon England by Gale Owen-Crocker, and the Authenticity Guide for Regia Anglorum.

For the man, the first layer would be a linen shirt or tunic, and either trousers, or hose and braies. We chose to make a simple shirt similar to those made elsewhere because the word Scyrte implies a shorter garment, rather than a full undertunic. the shirt has square gussets under the sleeves, and a keyhole neckline bound with silk.Hose and Braies were coming in as a style, but the anglo saxon trousers were still worn. After looking at, and experimenting with several reconstructions of early trousers starting with the iron age Thorsberg trousers, we decided to make the trousers by starting with 2 tubes with a seam down the inner leg. We tried several types of gussets and gores, and found that for us, they fit the best by taking in the lower legs, and adding a square crotch gusset. We left the bottom of the inseam open for the last few inches to get the trousers on over the foot. The trousers were held up with a linen twill tape tie. There was evidence for either ties or belts for this. There are old english words for what is assumed to be a loin cloth, but we opted to stay with modern underwear underneath.

For the woman, the first layer is a linen Smoc made in a similar pattern as layer 2 will be. We used the Nockert Type 1 form of tunic, as this is the most common type of tunic found around the 11th century. This tunic has square underarm gussets and side gores. We did not use center gores. Images of women’s clothing at this time appear to be mainly vertical in line, without much flaring out from the waist. The sleeves were very long and tight. The look at this time was for smoc sleeves to go over the hand some, and to have wrinkles on the forearm. The cuffs and necklines were bound with silk. There was a thriving silk trade in England at this time, and silk ribbons and strips were commonly used if one could afford it. The cap is to cover the hair so it does not show under the veil or wimple that will be added later. There are words for this garment like Feax Clap (head cloth), but what it looked like is up to interpretation. We used the English Cap proposed by Regia Anglorum for this. It is similar to a viking cap, but rounded at the top, and larger, so that all of the hair is covered. Some people use something like a St Birgitta cap, but that would seem to be to late to be used at this time.

All sewing was done by hand using waxed thread (linen for linen, silk for silk). Construction seams were done in back stitch; flat fell with whip stitch; and attaching strips to the edges with running stitch.

Both Linnet and Kendrick worked on this layer. Both of us worked on pattern development. Linnet did most of the construction sewing. Kendrick did the embroidery embellishment on the cap. He will be making many yards of fingerloop braid for the next 2 layers, as well as tablet weaving, and has already started working on those.

Bonus Points

Historic Intermediate · Historically Focused · Intermediate

Adelaide Sarsfield

Location: Cum an Iolair, Calontir

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Intermediate

About Adelaide: I began in Ansteorra, took a decade-long break when I had my daughter, and arrived in Calontir around 2012. I enjoy many skills within the SCA, but I am probably best known for sharing those skills with the children of the kingdom, during my time as Kingdom Minister of Youth.

Her Project: I’ve had some lovely fabric that has been begging to become an Italian gown, so I will make a 15th Century Venetian gown. There are a few historical paintings that show a lovely front-laced gown, such as the woman in pink in Ghirlandaio’s Birth of St. John the Baptist.

Intermediate · Modern Recreationist · Modern Recreationist Intermediate

Æva Dyer

Location: Barony of Caerthe, Outlands

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Intermediate

Project Update Blog: Of Green and Gold

About Æva: I have been playing in the SCA for just about 4 years now. Sewing wise my mother taught me as a child and I have continued on making Halloween Costumes, Cosplay, and now historical garments. My recent sewing has been keeping my child in garb, and finishing off leftover projects from college… I sew often but finishing things is a weak point. I usually play 10th Century Anglo Saxon this is a huge challenge for me as we go from clever triangles and rectangles to curves and yards upon yards of fabric. The first dress I was given help from the lovely The Honorable Lady Isabelle de Calais, as she created a first draft of the bodice based on her own. I also referenced much of her work as I rushed to complete the dress in under a week. When I am not sewing I am playing with illumination and other fiber arts.

Her Project: The plan is to remake a noble woman’s 1560’s Venetian dress. I had made one for our Baronial 12th night this past year. However, the dress needs to be reworked and I would like to see a more complete outfit. If you have seen the Venetian Province of Treviso, Republic of Venice Paolo Caliari (Veronese), 1561: Detail from fresco Treviso, Villa Barbaro That is basically the color and cut of the dress I plan to make. However, this piece will be more Modern Recreationist as I do not have the knowledge or skill to bring this to a Historically Focused masterpiece. Why? I honestly fell in love with this dress! It is comfy yet elegant and I would like to do it justice not just leave it as a one-off. The Layers I plan to make a set of Drawers, fix the Camicia neckline, cut a new bodice to correct the errors I made on the first dress, re-do the pleats on the skirt properly and attach to the bodice, make a Partlet, make a pair of sleeves, making a zimarra, make a zibellini. I plan to hand sew, a number of pieces but because of the time limit will be using machine stitching as needed. I will also attempt to document my progress via my blog ofgreenandgold.com

Intermediate · Modern Recreationist · Modern Recreationist Intermediate

A’isha al-Naysaburiya

Location: Barony of al-Barran, Outlands

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Intermediate

About A’isha: I’ve been in the SCA my entire life, both my parents played when I was young. I sew all of my families garb. I just have been in a pandemic funk lately and can’t get motivated. Hopefully deadlines will break the log jam in my head. I do research quite a bit, but I’m more of a problem solving artist than a accuracy junkie. If it looks more correct than not and meets my needs it’s good enough for me. I do portray late period Turkish so this will be an outfit for me. The accessory piece will be an obstacle. While I do many different arts I don’t work in too many mediums that would be helpful to the challenge. Shoes, or jewelry will probably be what it comes down to, neither of which I do, but I will do my best.

Her Project: I am hoping to do a full women’s Ottoman Court outfit. I have tons and tons of fabric but need a push to actually make clothes for myself. I don’t know if I will be able to find a pattern for the foundation piece that goes over the gomlek (chemise)but I am sure going to try. So there will ideally be undergarments (think chemise, and pants ) the foundation piece ( sort of the turkish corset) one or two midlevel coats, the outer coat, and then accessory pieces.(hat, shoes, jewelry, veils)

Historic Intermediate · Historically Focused · Intermediate

Alanna of Skye

Location: Carolingia, East

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Intermediate

About Alanna: I’ve been in the SCA for 20 years, mostly doing service things. I also do equestrian, thrown weapons, and archery. Nearly all of my sewing up til now has been by machine in straight lines (this is why early period is great) but I’ve made a decent amount that way. I enjoy embroidery and I’m working on improving my tablet weaving. I say my persona is 12th c English but realistically I think it’s turning into Norse cause it seems easier to make the complete picture look accurate. I’m doing this because I want to have garb that is as accurate as possible to level up my participation and this seemed like a good reason. This will be my first hand sewn garb and my first time constructing most of these pieces accurately. I’m also learning nalbinding for this project as I have never tried it before.

Her Project: My goal is to create a migration era Norse ensemble from the skin out, entirely sewn by hand. It will include an under tunic, serk, smokkr, and nalbinding mittens and socks. Other accessories will be made by friends, or possibly added to by me if I have extra time. This will be based off of extant finds, contemporary writings that describe the outfits, and visual representations from the period, mostly as interpreted by people with better research skills than me. I think this outfit would be worn by a woman of high status to a situation where many important people would see it to show off her wealth. I’ve been wanting to up my garb accuracy for awhile, and this will be the first time I work on a complete outfit for that goal.

Intermediate · Modern Recreationist · Modern Recreationist Intermediate

Ambra Michelli

Location: Trimaris

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Intermediate

About Ambra: My first event was in the womb. In that time, I have learned to make sturdy lasting garb – but have opportunities to grow my quality and aesthetic. I am very excited for this challenge. In 2017, I was elevated to the order of the Laurel for my efforts in Writren Works and the bardic comunity, and due service to my kingdom. I come from the shiney days of firelight carching trim, and am looking to step intonsomething more authentic (while maintaining the convenience of my sewing machiene – better for my attention span…). I actually have an itLlian persona, but my household is norse, linen breaths, and trimaris is hot! This will be the perfect wander-by-night Gulf Wars outfit. Ideally.

Her Project: I plan to make a late norse outfit – undershift, apron, coat, and accessory. The coat especially is something Inhave wanted to make for some time. It may include some heraldry. I have not yet decided. It will be based on some historial examples and altered for my personal aesthetic.

Historic Intermediate · Historically Focused · Intermediate

Ametrie of Vatavia

Location: Vatavia, Calontir

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Intermediate

About Ametrie : I’ve been in the SCA for about a year now, not as long as others have I’m sure. I mean, I’ve always known how to sew but I’ve recently been teaching myself more skills. I generally help others with other projects that they can’t talk on all on their own. I’ve been sticking with what I want my persona to be (I’m very indecisive) but I feel like this is a major part in who I am in life so yes, it does. This will be pretty challenging for me, it’s been a while since I’ve sewn and actually made a project out of it.

Her Project: My outfit is mainly focused around Hispanic women’s clothing dating back to the 16th century. The style is mostly higher class so a woman of higher standing (ex a duchess) would have worn such clothing. This piece in a way helps bring be closer to my heritage, I may not look it but I’m 1/3 Hispanic. This is something I’ve been wanting to do for a while but just never found time or motivation to finally try and make this beautiful outfit I have planned for you.

Intermediate · Modern Recreationist · Modern Recreationist Intermediate

Amy of Gleann Abhann

Location: Barony of Axemoor, Gleann Abhann

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Intermediate

Project Update Blog: The Enchanted Tower

About Amy : I dabbled in the SCA back in college, and I’ve been dipping my toes back in over the last year or so. I am very comfortable using a sewing machine on a commercial sewing pattern, but I sew modern and vintage styles more frequently than medieval styles. I have very little experience drafting patterns; hence my hesitation to attempt a cotehardie. I haven’t settled on an SCA persona, or even a name, but this project is going to be a good opportunity to test out 14th century Western Europe.

Her Project: I’m planning to make a middle-class 14th century European woman’s outfit for myself. I’ve wanted a Gothic Fitted Dress/Cotehardie for several years, and this project is going to be my motivation to finally try one! Due to budget constraints – and the fact that this is going to be a wearable muslin – I plan to substitute cotton for linen and wool. My first layer will be a chemise, my second layer will be a fitted kirtle, and my third layer will be a Cotehardie. My accessory will probably be leather shoes as leatherworking is a different discipline and not something I’ve tried before.

Layer 1

This is a woman’s plain cotton underdress. The neckline is very wide to remain unseen while accommodating the style of the first quarter of the 15th century in Western Europe. All visible stitching was completed by hand: felling the gores, skirt and sleeve hems, and neckline. I’ve made this pattern before, so I was able to copy most of the measurements and tweak the ones that I didn’t love from my last go-around this time. The pattern came from a blog post on Reconstructing History. Inserting gores into fabric slits remains challenging, but I found a tutorial on La cotte simple that did help it to lie more smoothly. I’m happy with this garment and might consider investing in a more expensive fabric if I have cause to make another underdress.

Bonus Points

Historic Intermediate · Historically Focused · Intermediate

Annabelle Fitzsimmons

Location: Barony of Namron, Ansteorra

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Intermediate

About : I have been in the SCA for 40 years, and have sewn for even longer. However, I have only been trying to be more historically accurate for the last 10 or so years. I do mostly fiber arts, but am also interested in woodworking and scribal arts.

Project: This is for a 16th century Italian middle class/lower upper class woman. I am basing my outfit from a painting by Lorenzo Lotto. Portrait of a Woman inspired by Lucretia. This is an outfit that has intrigued me for years, so this may finally inspire me to try to create it.

Intermediate · Modern Recreationist · Modern Recreationist Intermediate

Beatrice of Darkwater

Location: Midrealm

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Intermediate

About Beatrice : I started playing in the SCA in Trimaris about eight years ago and am currently living in the Midrealm. I have a fair amount of sewing experience, but have only made basic garb in the past. I have been wanting to up my garb game recently and this seemed like the perfect time to do it! In addition to sewing, I do a variety of crafts in the SCA, including kumihimo, jewelry making, fingerloop braiding, calligraphy and illumination, and banner making. At events, I can usually be found retaining or volunteering in some other way. This will be a challenging project for me, as I have not made garb above a basic level before. I fell in love with Roman garb during the hot outdoor events in Trimaris and am excited to make myself some new garb!

Her Project: I am planning to create an outfit that would have been worn by an unmarried upper class Roman woman of the Late Republic/Early Empire. I’ve been wanting to make a new, nicer outfit for a while, but this project has helped me focus that desire into a specific project.

Layer 1

The underlayers for my Late Roman Republic outfit for an unmarried woman consists of a strophium (bra band), subligar (underwear), and subucula (under tunic). Because these will not be seen by others and I am entering the modern recreationist category, I chose to machine sew all these pieces. The strophium is a long band that gets wrapped around the chest, similar to an ACE bandage. To create the pattern, I measured around my ribcage, multiplied that by 4, then added a few inches as ties. For the width, I measured just below my bust to just above my bust. I used a linen/cotton blend I already had in my stash, but wool or leather would be more common in period. Wool naturally has some stretch to it, but linen and cotton will stay stretched out once stretched. This leads to linen or cotton strophium needing to be adjusted throughout the day. Because I was using up fabric from my stash, I did sew the strophium in two pieces instead of making it out of one long piece. According to written evidence, subligar were not always worn by women. Extant art suggests they were worn at bathhouses and while exercising, but they also may have been worn during menstruation. I made my subligar based on an extant leather pair found in a well in Britain. The extant examples available look very much like a modern string bikini bottom made of leather. For my subligar, I chose to use a medium weight white linen out of my fabric stash and used cotton bias tape for the ties at the waist. I drafted my own pattern using a modern underwear tutorial. This was the most difficult piece to make this month, as I had to get the fit just right. But I think they turned out well. The subucula is a simple rectangle and was easy to make. I used the directions from Dulcia’s Roman Closet website to create my own pattern based off the directions for a closed shoulder tunic. I used a lightweight linen from fabric-store.com. During the Roman Republic, wool would likely have been the top choice for the under tunic, but linen, silk, cotton, and blends were all available. My subucula is mid-calf length and I left the bottom couple inches separate for ease of movement.

Bonus Points