Display Only · Intermediate · Modern Recreationist · Modern Recreationist Intermediate

Kristine Nic Tallier

From: Axed Root, Calontir

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Intermediate (Display Only)

Project Update Blog: Stars and Garters

About Kristine: I joined the SCA in middle school when my mother started taking us to meetings. I wasn’t always as excited about it in the beginning, but when I found tablet-weaving, I was hooked. I met my fiance, Vincent, as well as all my closest friends in the society.

Vincent and I came to a deal a long time ago that he would make our garb, since he enjoys it and it just puts me in a foul mood…. but since I’m spearheading this challenge, I feel like I have to put my money where my mouth is and participate. Wish our household luck!

Her project: Years ago, I came upon one of the images below and felt like I fully understood the woman wearing it – and I love her apron. I can’t just make the apron, right? I have to make the whole outfit to go with it. These images are all from the same illumination and are a little later than my usual time period (I’m usually mid-to-late 14thc Scot) being earlyish 15c inspired by images from The Book of Faiz Monseigneur Saint Loys. So, My plan is to make all the layers shown, a chemise, a supportive kirtle (stretch project of additional pin-on sleeves), a silk cotte with embroidery, and a wool over cotte with embroidered embellishments. My accessory will be a tablet woven belt, though I’ll also be making the aforementioned apron. I have other wacky ideas on extra accessory layers, but we’ll see how it goes!

Final Pictures

Her final thoughts on her C3 Experience: Well, I knew that running the challenge and getting my own outfit done at the same time would be a challenge. I didn’t get to the final overcoat layer like I’d hoped (which would have been blue wool with a red lining) but I’m pretty happy with the four I did get finished.

My favorite completed pieces are the belt (layer 4) and the apron, which was the inspiration for the whole thing.

Overall, I have reaffirmed that Vincent will do all the construction sewing from now on, but I’ll happily help out with hand-finishing. Good to know since we have wedding garb to finish next!

Layer 1

My layer 1 consists of a chemise and a St Birgitta’s Cap. Both are made of white linen and are of machine base construction and hand finished with linen thread.

The chemise is based off the general late period pattern which has been theorized was used in the early 15th century. As I’m in the modern recreationist category, I took a step from what I could document and added a simple embroidered pattern around the neckline and tablet woven trim around the base. The trim is of cotton, as it’s what I had on hand, and was woven by me – the first of many tablet woven projects which will be incorporated into this outfit.

The cap is of basic construction and went MUCH better than my first cap I attempted years ago. It went so well that I’m considering making a second one with some decorative elements.

Layer 2

This short sleeved kirtle is made of linen, with a wide V-front design to allow for changing sizes. The lacing here is tubular tablet weaving I made during the project time. Machine construction, hand finishing

Including the eyelets! This was my first time hand-sewing eyelets and I think they turned out alright.

Layer 3

This layer really tested my patience, let me tell you. We have a rule in my house, as mentioned above, that my fiance (Vincent de Vere) does all the sewing in the house and this dress proved once again that that’s a great policy for us. I tried on this dress and it fit great but there was a little too much on the back, so I took it out. Then I tried it on again…. and it was too small by exactly that same amount, so I had to piece it back in. There’s no reason it should happen, but it did.

Anyway, this is a green/black dupioni silk and I just love the color. Based on information from the Medieval Tailor’s assistant, I chose to make this layer side lacing to alternate with the underlayers. Rather than embroidering, I wove bands for the bottom as I’m a tablet-weaver and that seemed a lot less onerous for me while I was running this challenge. I will eventually go back and embroider in words as is seen in my inspiration images.

This, too, is machine sewn and hand finished, including all the eyelets for the side closures.

Layer 4

I’m a tablet weaver (if you couldn’t tell from all the tablet weaving I snuck into my other layers) so my layer four is a tablet woven, brocaded belt. The main layer is a red 30/2 silk with a mylar metallic weft (because who can afford real gold for these things?) Patterns are self-designed and generically geometric.

I like to have a supportive backing layer on my belts because I’m not very easy on them. It offers a little extra support. The backing band here is a linen in a simple pattern which was woven separately and sewn to the decorative band.

Belt ends are purchased.

Layer 4+

  1. Farmhouse Cheddar – Cheesemaking techniques haven’t changed much since medieval times. I’ve made two cheddar rounds, one smoked (ok, burned. I scorched the milk. But I already had the yeast and rennet in it by then, so I went ahead and finished it. Who knows?) and one regular. They’ll age until January when it’s time to take pictures
  2. Beeswax – The beeswax was processed from the yearly rent paid by the bees who live in my yard. The hive shaped piece is mine for the challenge and the bees went out to people from my local group who have taken up the challenge as well.
  3. Embroidered Apron – the whole reason this was my to-do outfit! The originals had religious sayings but, not being religious I wanted to switch it out for something else. “Vox Nihili” – roughly meaning “saying Nothing” seemed amusing and appropriate. Linen embroidery on lined fabric, with a linen tablet woven band at the top for tying.

Bonus Points

Display Only · Historic Intermediate · Historically Focused · Intermediate

Vincent de Vere

From: Axed Root, Calontir

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Intermediate (Display Only)

Project Update Blog: Stars and Garters

About Vincent: I have been participating in the SCA for about 15 years. I do quite a bit of of basic costuming, especially helping newer members. Beyond sewing I work on a lot of general SCA projects and work on recruitment and retention efforts.

His Project: Mid fourteenth century middle class merchant from Western Europe. This is a commonly represented garment seen in illustrations. I am also working off of the men’s fourteenth century gown from the second edition Medieval Tailors Assistant.

Final Photos

Layer 1

This is the base layer of my attempt for a 1350’s merchant.  It would be a middle class merchant from western Europe.   

Linen Braies: long white linen braies, machine sewn, hand seam finished

Wool Hosen: Machine sewn, hand seam finished

Linen shirt: White linen, machine sewn, hand seam finished

Linen coif: White linen, machine sewn, hand seam finished

Layer 2

The layer consists of the linen doublet. This is an early version of a doublet based on the pattern described in the Medieval Tailor’s Assistant book. I machine sewed the garment with hand finishing and hand done eyelets.

Layer 3

A gown for a merchant from mid 1300’s. The gown is wool lined in linen. It is machine sewn and hand finished. I feel the gown needs to be more full and needs a wider cut.

Layer 4

The Layer 4 accessory is the set of scales. Scales would be a common accessory used by many merchants and trades people through many different time periods. This scale is made out of brass. The chain was purchased. The other raw materials were brass sheet, brass wire and a brass rod. The pans were dished and the balance arms were cut from a rod of brass and shaped using files.

Layer 4+

  • Leather shoes: Machine basting stitch, hand sewn after
  • Leather Coin Pouch: Hand finished
  • Scented body powder: ground orris root and clove body powder
  • Leather garters (x2): Purchased buckles, dyed vegetable tanned leather and hand finished
  • Leather girdle belt for Braies: Purchased bronze buckle, dyed vegetable tanned leather and hand finished
  • Garnet Ring (x2)
  • Garnet Brooch
  • 2 leather belts made from purchased buckles and oak tanned leather
  • A pouch made with a purchased buckle and oak tanned leather
  • Leather gloves
  • Leather shoes
  • wool cloak
  • hat of wool and linen

Bonus Points

Display Only · Historic Intermediate · Historically Focused · Intermediate

Zaneta Baseggio

Location: Axed Root, Calontir

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Intermediate

About Zaneta: I have been in the SCA for about nine years now. I normally play as a 15th century Venetian woman. Other days, I play at being a 10th century Norwegian. While I have been making garb since I started, I almost never manage to get extra details done – embroidery, shoes, hair coverings, etc – especially for my Venetian outfits. I am hoping to be able to create a complete outfit from head to toe. Making pants will be especially challenging for me. While I can make Thorsberg trousers for my husband without much problem, I have never been able to successfully create pants for myself. I attempted a pair of venetian under drawers (shorts) one time and almost stopped sewing – it was that bad. So this challenge should help me overcome some of my mental blocks about garb making.

Her Project: I will be making an outfit that would have been worn by a man in 1490’s Venice. It will be based off of figures in Vittore Carpaccio’s paintings – The Miracle of the Cross at the Ponte di Rialto (also known as “The Healing of the Madman”), and The Departure of the Pilgrims (from the St. Ursula cycle). I have been wearing Norse and generic 14th century clothing for a while and I would like to get back to being Italian. My outfit will consist of the following: Layer 1 – Camisa or undershirt Layer 2 – Zupon, sleeves, and hose Layer 3 – Mantello or caxacha, like a coat Layer 4 – Possibly shoes, hat, or hat pendant

Final Photos

Her final thoughts on her C3 experience:

I really struggled with motivation on this project. I had a few ‘what do I think I am doing’ moments, but I am super happy that I did finish. I might have made the bare bones entry, but it is still done. I have finally made myself a persona specific coat – with embroidery! I have made a doublet and realized it’s not as scary to make or as hard to wear as I had imagined. It’s pretty comfy. I look forward to wearing it.

I will continue to make improvements on this project and will finally get around to making shoes sometime soon.

Not challenge related clothing items – I did not make my leggings or my boots. I did make my hat but it was before the challenge started.

Layer 1

This is a linen undershirt for a man in 1490’s Venice. I read through a number of blogs and looked at a number of images for this layer. Unfortunately, most of what I looked at had the same message – we aren’t entirely sure…. So I followed the general lines of a shirt from the Medieval Tailor’s Assistant book and added more to the sleeves for future puffiness. The shirt has machine sewn seams and is hand finished. Rather than angle out the body panels, they are straight rectangles. The neck was left large and I gathered it up into a small neck band. There are ties at the neck to close it when it is under the doublet.

This is the first time I have made this type of shirt so next time I will probably make the body panels a bit bigger. I must have done my math wrong because it’s a little more close fitting on the hips than I had planned. I didn’t want the shirt to be too baggy, though, because I tend to get overheated in my normal poofy camicia’s. As the part that is close fitting will be the part under my hose, I think it will be okay and will give me all the poofs that I need at the right spots.

Layer 2

1490’s Italian men’s doublet with attached sleeves.

I’ve held off submitting this layer because I thought I might make pants like I originally planned. I did make a mockup using the “trace a pair of pants” Morgan Donner method. It fit very well in the leg, but not so much around the hips and waist. So I decided to not continue with it right now.

The doublet is machine and hand sewn with tablet woven round cord. Seams were done by hand. Finishing, hems, and buttonholes done by hand.

Like my overcoat, I decided to tack my sleeves to the body with stitches rather than trying to lace them on. I did leave gaps if I want to poof the undershirt and the bottom half is not attached. I did not line the sleeves. The skirt panels were machine sewn (and therefore will probably be redone) and then whipstitched to the body. I left an overlap for pointing the doublet to pants in the future.

Layer 3

Layer three was the main focus of this project. I created a open front over coat based on paintings of 1490’s Venice. I embroidered the left sleeve with an impresa representing my kingdom. In period, the sleeve would have been decorated with a personal or family impresa for those older men. For younger men, it might have been the impresa/logo for one of the Compagnia della Calze. In period, the garment would have been made of wool or velvet. The sleeves would have been laced onto the body and would have had openings to allow the large sleeves of the undershirt to floof out.

I chose to use a cotton flannel because I had it on hand. The lining is a yellow linen. Because this will be a winter coat for me, and I don’t plan on taking off the sleeves, I hand sewed the sleeves to the body to give the impression that they were tied in – the top of the sleeve is actually about a centimeter under the body so there is a bit of yellow lining to flash at the arm. I didn’t sew the sleeve all the way onto the body and I left a section of upper arm open as well so that the undershirt can poof if I want it to.

The body seams were sewn by machine. Once it was turned right side out, I sewed the neck, arm holes, and hem by hand. I also edged the front and neck line with a running stitch to keep the edges neat.

The sleeves were entirely sewn by machine. The flannel and lining were sewn together, turned, and then sewn into a tube shape. I didn’t like the look of the gap the first run through, so I sewed more of the upper arm. There is only about a six inch gap. I might go ahead and sew that completely together later on.

The embroidery on the sleeve is done in chain stitch with hand dyed silk. The purple details and letters were hand dyed by Lady Agnes von Heidelberg. I helped Agnes dye the two yellows.

Layer 4

Heraldic medallion in the manner of Venetian Heralds. Heralds in Venice wore a gold medallion of the Lion of St Mark on their hats.

The original plan was for layer 4 to be shoes, but they just weren’t going to get done. One of my stretch goals was to complete a heraldic medallion since this was supposedly my “official” Herald get up. But I’m still a complete newb at metalwork. So I went with painting. Which I’m also a newb at.

I started by freehand painting. Then I went with masking tape stencils. Then I added details with sharpie. The bigger Gold Falcon badge was still tacky when I went to attach it to my previously made hat, so I went with the standard Herald medallion.

I used enamel paints and pre-cut metal blanks. I put a piece of masking tape down on the blank, drew out the design, and then used an exacto knife to remove the parts that I wanted painted.

Bonus Points