Advanced · Historic Advanced · Historically Focused

Mistress Heidi of Cote du ciel

Location: Cote du ciel, Artemisia

Category/Level: Historically Focused/Advanced

About Heidi: I’ve been playing in the sca for 27 years or so. I love doing different things such as beading, wire and metal work, and more recently sewing and embroidery that doesn’t involve beads. I also do bardic arts, spinning, weaving, making period games, research.

Her Project: I like to explore the different cultures and garb of the silk road. I especially like to use extant items to make period accurate patterns. This is garb I’ve wanted to make for some time.

Final Photos

Layer 1

Material – reclaimed Sari Silk fabric, in a close floral design as pictured in Clothing of the Mongol Court book. Thread used: Silk. Silk. All seams, hems and other bits were hand sewn. Seams were done with a double folded overcast hem and then sewn together with an overcast stitch. All hems were double folded overcast stitch. Pleats were knife pleats as shown in the extant Kamiz pictured in this document.

Layer 2

Materials:  lightweight reclaimed red Sari fabric, solid red.  Thread used:  Silk.  All seams, hems and other bits were hand sewn.  Seams were done with a double folded overcast hem and then sewn together with an overcast stitch.  All hems were double folded overcast stitch.  Design used was a sleeveless type (as described in the Clothing of the Mongol Court book), pattern modified from that taken from the archaeological sketches of the ????Clothing of the Mongol Court  

Layer 3

Materials:  felted maroon fabric.  Thread used:  Silk.  All seams hand sewn in a double flat felled stitch.  Accent border done in yellow reclaimed Sari Silk fabric cut on the bias and used to create the “trim” for the border.  Hand sewn hemstitch used to apply the “trim” border.  Since the fabric is felted wool and not given to fraying, not hems were done on this garment, just care taken to make sure the fabric was cut evenly without jagged edges.

Layer 4

For my final layer, the head and back and chest pieces (jewelry):

For the base of the head piece, I used a reclaimed mink stoal. It had some issues, so I cut away the bad pieces, re-backed it with new (black linen) fabric, and used that base for the forehead piece and the dangling strands. With regards to the documentation for this head piece, I went with a combination of pieces. The first are the netted pieces that have been uncovered in Egypt dating back to the 2nd millennia BC, the other is a piece uncovered in the Altai Peninsula of Siberia, where in the mummified skin of the forehead were indentations where beadwork from the headpiece had made its impression, and the final was not an archaeological piece but was the pictorial representation of the Mongols as shown in the exhibit at the National Museum, Copenhagen, Denmark titled “On the Steppes of Genghis Khan: Mongolia’s Nomads.” The Mongolian woman’s costume of the Abaga region on display in Copenhagen, Denmark | Mongolian costumed mannequin in the National Museum, Copenhagen, Denmark. I have posted them below. I used turquoise, coral, bone and in places silver plated beads netted or strung on artificial sinew to best simulate period techniques and materials. I used in the case of the forehead piece and the back and chest pieces a netting stitch that was used both in ancient Egypt and, as far as can be determined, the tomb of the Altai Princess. The pictures of the mannequins in the Copenhagen exhibit also had this netting design, which I followed when crafting my pieces.

Bonus Points:

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