Intermediate · Modern Recreationist · Modern Recreationist Intermediate

Lady Tanneke Fredericksdochter Hasselaers

Location: Barony of the Lonely Tower, Calontir

Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Intermediate

About Tanneke: I’ve been a member of the SCA off and on since the 90’s and taught myself to sew. Thanks to the Internet I’ve learned so much about design and history and have access to documents and paintings that have really enhanced my clothing recreation efforts. I was looking to do something a little bit different this time around in the SCA and came across Drea Lead’s Flemish Workingwomen’s site and made several sets of Workingwomen’s Flemish garb. While doing further research I came across Kenau Simonsdochter Hasselaer (sometimes with an S). She lived in the late 16th century in Haarlem and what I found really exciting is coming across an engraving of the clothing I had made–historical proof for what I was creating and also this experience made history come alive for me. Kenau was a historical woman I could relate to and has a fascinating story. My construction skills have been slower to develop and with this challenge I want to really pay attention to the small details and take the time to produce a quality, well made garment. This recreation will expand the wardrobe for my persona and will present a mix of opportunities to practice skills I’ve been working on and challenge myself to attempt new ones. I have not yet created a high necked smock with ruffs at the throat and wrists, padded shoulder rolls to the bodice, or a bodice dress. I’m also going to make my first pair of shoes and develop a swallow tailed veil as seen in the image.

Her Project: After having completed Flemish garb I wanted to challenge myself to go further. After doing some more digging I came across the image of The Garden of Holland, an allegorical engraving by Philip Galle of a woman dressed in the manner of Kenau Simonsdochter Hasselaers from the late 16th century Haarlem near Flanders. The Garden of Holland is a heraldic engraving from a series of 51 prints of the Duke of Brabent and was printed by Plantijin Moretus around 1600. The design is from 1563. ( I’ve been wanting to attempt recreating these garments for some time and this challenge presents an opportunity for me to do so. As Kenau was a merchant class woman (she was widowed and took over her husband’s wood supply business) and this garment is styled after Kenau this garment would be worn by a middle class woman. Further research revealed a heavy Spanish influence on society’s color palate and was rather somber: black, greys, browns, murreys (dark reddish purple) and sanguines (reddish brown reminiscent of dried blood). In looking at the color palate of depictions of KSH I also saw lots of orangey reds, black velvet partlets and guards, tans, golden browns, greens, and even light pinky purples. Worsted wools, a silk like wool, were often used by the merchant class, as silks and satins were reserved for those with larger incomes and nobility. For this recreation I’ve chosen modern silk wool: a golden yellow for the underkirtle and a bright orangey red for the doublet dress. The sleeves look to be a darker color and I haven’t yet determined if they were attached at the armscye of the garment or were detachable and held on with pins. A white linen apron is often worn so I will be creating a white apron with my own acknowledgement of this year. Along the hem I will embroider “Hoc quoque transbit 2020” (this too shall pass) and a stylized heraldic corona virus.

Layer 1

15th century high necked smock. I sewed the main seams by machine and hand finished all seams by flat felling. Any visible sewing is done by hand also. I think I would add a top tie on the neck to hold the collar and ruff closer to the face.

Bonus Points

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