Location: Barony of Rivenoak, West
Category/Level: Historically Focused, Intermediate
About Tellina: I’m known as Tellina di Guiseppe da Fiesole. I live in the Barony of Rivenoak in the Principality of Cynagua in the Kingdom of the West. I’ve only been playing for about three years. I currently serve as baronial exchequer and prima consortia (baronial head of court). I do a small amount of costuming, but generally I’m generally known as a cook. In cooking I also prefer to focus on the Italian peninsula.
Her Project: My area of interest is 1450-1470 Florence. I’m particularly inspired by the paintings of Piero della Francesca, so I intend to create an outfit based on his paintings. Clothing depicted in his paintings generally consists of a camicia (shift), gamurra (kirtle type dress) and giornea (sleeveless overdress) or cioppa (sleeved overdress). I’m not exactly certain what the accessory will be, but I’ve been eyeing belts.
Update: I’ve updated my plan and inspiration since the website profile was created, so I’ll no longer be taking as much inspiration solely from the paintings of Piero della Francesca, but will focus on aspects of dress appropriate for travel in inclimate weather including hallmarks of pilgrim dress still appropriate to somewhere between 1450-1480 Tuscany.
Her Final Thoughts on the Challenge:
I was very pleased having everything on, although if I plan to wear it in the snow again, I’m gonna need to make a hood. The surprising win for me was the totally unplanned bag made from my leftover sleeve material, it’s incredibly convenient.
I’m working on an outfit appropriate to my later half of the 15th century Florentine persona had she gone on pilgrimage. Under pinnings are not widely depicted in my little window of time/place (okay, not for women anyways). It’s reasonably clear that women wore both camicia and calze, as they can be glimpsed at the neckline and hem. In the particular period I’m looking at ~1450-1480 it does not appear that shifts are yet gathered at the neck nor particularly voluminous at the sleeves, and there is some earlier and later evidence of gored construction, so that’s what I opted for. My shift was 100% hand sewn in linen cloth. The calze (stockings), again lacking extant garments or tremendous detail, I looked slightly further and based my seam placement in a german stocking depiction. The stockings had machine structural seams and hand finishing. They are made of wool.
My outfit is appropriate to a mid-15th century pilgrim from Florence. My main inspiration was a fresco from the 1480s, so I chose some specifically 1450s-1470s features for the gamurra (kirtle). The dress is made of wool and features a puffed sleeve shape common to women is the mid-15th in the Italian peninsula (this shape remained in fashion for men much longer). I had wanted matching sleeves, but made an error in calculating yardage, so I went with a contrasting sleeve. Contrasting plain sleeves seem to be more common outside of Florence in this time period, but pilgrims are by nature travelers. The dress is hand sewn, and between the front and side lacing has 98 eyelets. The other thing that went wrong was that it was initially too long waisted, so I detached the skirt and moved it up an inch and half.
This is a short mantel similar to the one featured in the inspiration fresco. Over Zoom I played around and we realized the proportions of my skirts were very similar, so this is essentially a skirt on a band. It’s is made of slightly heavier wool and hand sewn. In the fresco it’s hard to tell if there is a front opening, but I rather liked it without.
Pilgrims need hats! While the inspiration had a shorter brimmed hat, I’ve opted for a bycocket because it will keep rain off my glasses. There are bycockets in my 1460s inspiration frescos. The hat was made by wet felting roving, I then dyed it using acid dyes, shaped it and added pewter cast badges. The badges were sand cast, however in period they would likely have used soapstone moulds. The designs are based on extant badges to scale. The purse is admittedly not a pilgrim badge (possibly a professional badge), but it’s so cute.
Pilgrims also need bags! From the scraps of the sleeve material, I fashioned a bag on the commonly depicted trapezoidal shape, it’s also adorned with pewter cast badges.