Location: Barony of Southron Gaard, Lochac
Category/Level: Modern Recreationist/Intermediate
Project Update Blog: Sarta de Donna
About Violetta: I have been a member of the SCA for about 15 years now and am quite good at sewing but due to difficulties with my arms and hands can’t quite do it all by hand but if its visible then its hand sewn. I have completed the Italian Renaissance Costume Challenge nine times and am currently working on my 10th, have won it once but I really only take part for fun not the competition. My person in the SCA is really mid 16th century Florentine, who travels around a lot, but I have long been fascinated by the Venetian Turkish coats seen in Titians portraits and this brought me to this outfit I want to make inspired by Roxelana.
Her Project: I am looking at creating an outfit inspired by the portraits of Roxelana, Hurrem Sultan wife of Sulyeiman, so Turkish early to mid 1500s. I believe this will comprise of many items I am yet to find the correct names for but will do some research on this very soon.
Underwear layer for mid 16th century Ottoman ladies garb as possibly worn by Hurrem Sultan consisting of a kamis and salwar. The camis is cut from very light white cotton voile and machine sewn but hand felled seams. It is based on a piece held in the Topkapi Museum (I think it was)which has very intricate side panelling with gathered lower sections. I made this piece because I have a previous one that no longer fits but was so very comfortable. The picture of Ottoman women show they were quite long, below the knee and really sheer so i chose the lightest fabric I had in my stash Sleeves were left very wide as this is whats seen in the portraits of Hurrem. The other underwear piece is a pair of salwar pants, made based on a pattern I found online (https://sableroseblog.wordpress.com/2018/05/02/turkish-pants-v-1-survey/) which nearly broke my brain trying to follow! The fabric is again a lightweight cotton but in a nice baby blue. I did some research and discovered several portraits of the ladies with coloured pants and this fabric was what fell out at me while searching so it obviously wanted to be used. My arms were being dumb and sore so these pants are machine sewn although I made sure to french seam them for neatness and strength. I added a tie for the waist with tassell ends rather than the method described of just wrapping a scarf around and folding over the pants, I didn’t feel this would be comfortable for me.
all my fabric is cotton as I can not wear linen, it breaks me out in a rash due to my grass allergy, it is also my own challenge to use only what I have in my stash as I have no budget for purchasing anything right now.