Location: Axed Root, Calontir
Category/Level: Historically Focused/Intermediate
About Zaneta: I have been in the SCA for about nine years now. I normally play as a 15th century Venetian woman. Other days, I play at being a 10th century Norwegian. While I have been making garb since I started, I almost never manage to get extra details done – embroidery, shoes, hair coverings, etc – especially for my Venetian outfits. I am hoping to be able to create a complete outfit from head to toe. Making pants will be especially challenging for me. While I can make Thorsberg trousers for my husband without much problem, I have never been able to successfully create pants for myself. I attempted a pair of venetian under drawers (shorts) one time and almost stopped sewing – it was that bad. So this challenge should help me overcome some of my mental blocks about garb making.
Her Project: I will be making an outfit that would have been worn by a man in 1490’s Venice. It will be based off of figures in Vittore Carpaccio’s paintings – The Miracle of the Cross at the Ponte di Rialto (also known as “The Healing of the Madman”), and The Departure of the Pilgrims (from the St. Ursula cycle). I have been wearing Norse and generic 14th century clothing for a while and I would like to get back to being Italian. My outfit will consist of the following: Layer 1 – Camisa or undershirt Layer 2 – Zupon, sleeves, and hose Layer 3 – Mantello or caxacha, like a coat Layer 4 – Possibly shoes, hat, or hat pendant
Her final thoughts on her C3 experience:
I really struggled with motivation on this project. I had a few ‘what do I think I am doing’ moments, but I am super happy that I did finish. I might have made the bare bones entry, but it is still done. I have finally made myself a persona specific coat – with embroidery! I have made a doublet and realized it’s not as scary to make or as hard to wear as I had imagined. It’s pretty comfy. I look forward to wearing it.
I will continue to make improvements on this project and will finally get around to making shoes sometime soon.
Not challenge related clothing items – I did not make my leggings or my boots. I did make my hat but it was before the challenge started.
This is a linen undershirt for a man in 1490’s Venice. I read through a number of blogs and looked at a number of images for this layer. Unfortunately, most of what I looked at had the same message – we aren’t entirely sure…. So I followed the general lines of a shirt from the Medieval Tailor’s Assistant book and added more to the sleeves for future puffiness. The shirt has machine sewn seams and is hand finished. Rather than angle out the body panels, they are straight rectangles. The neck was left large and I gathered it up into a small neck band. There are ties at the neck to close it when it is under the doublet.
This is the first time I have made this type of shirt so next time I will probably make the body panels a bit bigger. I must have done my math wrong because it’s a little more close fitting on the hips than I had planned. I didn’t want the shirt to be too baggy, though, because I tend to get overheated in my normal poofy camicia’s. As the part that is close fitting will be the part under my hose, I think it will be okay and will give me all the poofs that I need at the right spots.
1490’s Italian men’s doublet with attached sleeves.
I’ve held off submitting this layer because I thought I might make pants like I originally planned. I did make a mockup using the “trace a pair of pants” Morgan Donner method. It fit very well in the leg, but not so much around the hips and waist. So I decided to not continue with it right now.
The doublet is machine and hand sewn with tablet woven round cord. Seams were done by hand. Finishing, hems, and buttonholes done by hand.
Like my overcoat, I decided to tack my sleeves to the body with stitches rather than trying to lace them on. I did leave gaps if I want to poof the undershirt and the bottom half is not attached. I did not line the sleeves. The skirt panels were machine sewn (and therefore will probably be redone) and then whipstitched to the body. I left an overlap for pointing the doublet to pants in the future.
Layer three was the main focus of this project. I created a open front over coat based on paintings of 1490’s Venice. I embroidered the left sleeve with an impresa representing my kingdom. In period, the sleeve would have been decorated with a personal or family impresa for those older men. For younger men, it might have been the impresa/logo for one of the Compagnia della Calze. In period, the garment would have been made of wool or velvet. The sleeves would have been laced onto the body and would have had openings to allow the large sleeves of the undershirt to floof out.
I chose to use a cotton flannel because I had it on hand. The lining is a yellow linen. Because this will be a winter coat for me, and I don’t plan on taking off the sleeves, I hand sewed the sleeves to the body to give the impression that they were tied in – the top of the sleeve is actually about a centimeter under the body so there is a bit of yellow lining to flash at the arm. I didn’t sew the sleeve all the way onto the body and I left a section of upper arm open as well so that the undershirt can poof if I want it to.
The body seams were sewn by machine. Once it was turned right side out, I sewed the neck, arm holes, and hem by hand. I also edged the front and neck line with a running stitch to keep the edges neat.
The sleeves were entirely sewn by machine. The flannel and lining were sewn together, turned, and then sewn into a tube shape. I didn’t like the look of the gap the first run through, so I sewed more of the upper arm. There is only about a six inch gap. I might go ahead and sew that completely together later on.
The embroidery on the sleeve is done in chain stitch with hand dyed silk. The purple details and letters were hand dyed by Lady Agnes von Heidelberg. I helped Agnes dye the two yellows.
Heraldic medallion in the manner of Venetian Heralds. Heralds in Venice wore a gold medallion of the Lion of St Mark on their hats.
The original plan was for layer 4 to be shoes, but they just weren’t going to get done. One of my stretch goals was to complete a heraldic medallion since this was supposedly my “official” Herald get up. But I’m still a complete newb at metalwork. So I went with painting. Which I’m also a newb at.
I started by freehand painting. Then I went with masking tape stencils. Then I added details with sharpie. The bigger Gold Falcon badge was still tacky when I went to attach it to my previously made hat, so I went with the standard Herald medallion.
I used enamel paints and pre-cut metal blanks. I put a piece of masking tape down on the blank, drew out the design, and then used an exacto knife to remove the parts that I wanted painted.